Route 23  5.9+

196 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, TR, 50 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Unknown Submitted By:  Steven Reneau on Mar 21, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This climb is about 10' right of "#22"; it is the rightmost line on the South Side of the Big Enchilada that looks worth considering.

Climb up a blocky dihedral to a ledge. Climb the headwall above, following the crack in its center that begins as hands, passes over a block, then turns to a finger crack. Finish on easy slab to an anchor on the blocks at the top.

Below the route 23 anchors there are at least 3 distinct routes above the ledge. The left route uses the crack described above, and may be 5.8+ or 5.9-. The middle route follows the left side of the face to the right, using the nose/arête, and has a short 5.10 crux. This fits Jackson’s #8 route description (“difficult to protect, best to toprope”), although his photo shows a line up the left crack. The 3rd route follows the next crack to the right, off the rope line, goes at ~5.8, and makes a nice easier lead. You can also do at least 3 different routes to get to the ledge, the left one being the best for pro. Also, the loose rocks and rubble on the ledge have been cleaned.

Location 

Route #23 in Chen/Wehner, as shown on the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #25 (5.9+) and Jackson #8 (5.9+).

Protection 

Standard rack up to 2.5 inches.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.