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5.8 Crack 
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Box Overhang Left 
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Face Off 
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Holy Wall 
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M.C. Epic 
Narcissistic Dream 
Nice Guys Finish Last 
No Exit 
On Beyond Zebra 
Paul's Boutique 
Polly's Crack 
RDD Crack 
Route 21 
Sensuous S 
Squeeze Chimney 
Thief in Time 
Thorazine Dream 
Way Beyond Zebra 

Route 21 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type: Trad, TR, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 345
Submitted By: Mark Mathis on Apr 3, 2007
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The crack route just right of Face Off is loose down low and low angle and easy up high.
Climb loose and easy choss down low. Steep moves over small or tricky-to-place gear lets you reach the start of a hand crack. Steep moves in the hand crack or to jugs on either side are powerful and let you reach a 2nd parallelling crack. It is easier above as the climb becomes much less steep.


The crack to face route just right of "Face Off"


Usually toproped from bolted anchor.
Can be led with various gear from small nuts to hand-size cams. Creatively-placed micronuts, hexes, or tri-cams is helpful to protect the first hard move or two; then you get a good hand-size cam placement, followed by protectable finger/hand cracks.

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By Mark Mathis
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Not the best route but one of my personal favorites. Similar in difficulty to "Holy Wall" but completely different (and with much less traffic). I would personally like to see some bolts on this route in the future (particularly down low before the crack starts).