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 ADVANCED
South/East side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Bosker Boozeroo S 
Box Overhang Left T,TR 
Box Overhang Right T,TR 
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 
Boy What Nice Fellows T 
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 
Cholla Crack T,TR 
Cholla Wall T,TR 
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 
Face Off S,TR 
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 
Holy Crack T,TR 
Holy Wall S,TR 
Len's Roof T,TR 
M.C. Epic T,TR 
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 
Nice Guys Finish Last S 
No Exit S,TR 
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Overture TR 
Paul's Boutique S 
Polly's Crack T,TR 
RDD Crack T,TR 
Route 21 T,TR 
Sensuous S T,TR 
Squeeze Chimney T 
Thief in Time S,TR 
Thorazine Dream S,TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Wildcat S 

Route 21 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 358
Submitted By: Mark Mathis on Apr 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

The crack route just right of Face Off is loose down low and low angle and easy up high.
Climb loose and easy choss down low. Steep moves over small or tricky-to-place gear lets you reach the start of a hand crack. Steep moves in the hand crack or to jugs on either side are powerful and let you reach a 2nd parallelling crack. It is easier above as the climb becomes much less steep.


Location 

The crack to face route just right of "Face Off"


Protection 

Usually toproped from bolted anchor.
Can be led with various gear from small nuts to hand-size cams. Creatively-placed micronuts, hexes, or tri-cams is helpful to protect the first hard move or two; then you get a good hand-size cam placement, followed by protectable finger/hand cracks.



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By Mark Mathis
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Not the best route but one of my personal favorites. Similar in difficulty to "Holy Wall" but completely different (and with much less traffic). I would personally like to see some bolts on this route in the future (particularly down low before the crack starts).