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Route 2 - The Roof Route 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 2,118
Submitted By: Michael Bartosek on Apr 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Route 2 shown on the right - follows the bolt line...

Description 

Last two bolts to anchors - steeper face with small holds but good feet.


Location 

2nd route from left on wall. A bouldery start to 1st bolt just left of huge crack in wall. Climb up past manzanita bush for 1st clip. Walkoff or 3 bolt anchor with rap rings.


Protection 

6-8 bolts to a three bolt anchor with rap rings.



Photos of Route 2 - The Roof Route Slideshow Add Photo
James leading "The Roof Route" and in the first crux section below the crack.  This is probably the best climb on the wall!
James leading "The Roof Route" and in the first cr...
This angle makes "The Roof Route" look a tad steeper than it really is, but it shows the route fairly well, James on lead.
This angle makes "The Roof Route" look a tad steep...
Comments on Route 2 - The Roof Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jimippa
From: Sherman Oaks, CA
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

This was a awesome, mental, slabby 5.10a. I think it's abit harder, but I'm not used to slabby stuff so I'm really nobody who can judge. It begins with sweet move over a big block. Then is stairs for 20ft. You traverse left once you run out of hand holds and start a mock crack climb that slowly disappears as you make your way up to the last to bolts. The crack ends and your left with nothing to hold on to, or stand on 8ft from the anchors, 5 ft above your last clip. Ha...

It's one smooth, wishful move that if you miss, you'll surely lose some skin! Overall, this is a "classic" route with a lot of different climbing techniques built in.


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By Sean Denny
From: Portland
Nov 15, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

One of my favorites. The path of least resistance weaves back and forth between the bolts. If you go straight from bolt to bolt then I'd believe the 10a/b grade. Regardless, a wonderful lesson in slab technique without the danger of substantial bodily harm.

By Maidy
Apr 7, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Definitely the best route on the wall. A must-do. Super fun, technical and thoughtful. Some may find the rating a little stiff, but the bolts are where you need them. The path of least resistance is not a straight line.

The (shared) anchor is set back and requires a cordalette for extension if you want to TR this climb. Pulling the rope after cleaning is a bit of a pain in the rear since the rap-rings are flat on the rock + the gully and bushes are rope-grabbers. I actually recommend just belaying the second up and walking back to the base to save time.

If you are TR-ing this leave some directionals since it is possible to take a pendulum fall on the bottom section.

By hikingdrew
From: Los Angeles, CA
Oct 14, 2013

+1 for directionals for TR, a fall on the lower half will pendulum into a wall across a small gully and will ruin your day...