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Up the loose dihedral and out the right side of a roof via offwidth.
South Side beta photo and Beverly both show this route going right and joining Headjam 1/2-2/3 of the way up, but if you stay left through the off-width crux (maybe 5.9+ or 5.10-, good knee jam possible if you have smallish legs), you can parallel Headjam to near the top as shown by Jackson.
Route #19 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the South Side beta photo.
This climb is also listed as Beverly #21 (5.9) and Jackson #12 (5.9).
TR, or lead it with a rack that includes 1 or more #4 camalots and optional larger cams.
|By Chris Wenker|
From: Santa Fe
Feb 21, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
If you're going to stay in the wide crack (which was mostly rattly fists & armbars for me), more than one #4 Camalot, and maybe even an old #4.5, would be reassuring, if this is at your limit, I recall.