Route 19 5.9+
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Description Up the loose dihedral and out the right side of a roof via offwidth. South Side beta photo and Beverly both show this route going right and joining Headjam 1/2-2/3 of the way up, but if you stay left through the off-width crux (maybe 5.9+ or 5.10-, good knee jam possible if you have smallish legs), you can parallel Headjam to near the top as shown by Jackson.
Location Route #19 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the South Side beta photo. This climb is also listed as Beverly #21 (5.9) and Jackson #12 (5.9).
Protection TR, or lead it with a rack that includes 1 or more #4 camalots and optional larger cams. 2-bolt anchor.
By Chris Wenker From: Santa Fe Feb 21, 2011 rating: 5.9+
| If you're going to stay in the wide crack (which was mostly rattly fists & armbars for me), more than one #4 Camalot, and maybe even an old #4.5, would be reassuring, if this is at your limit, I recall. |
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