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 ADVANCED
South Side, Big Enchilada
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boba Fett TR 
Chimney T,TR 
Dihedral T,TR 
Fourth Sister T,TR 
Headjam T,TR 
HuiHui's Revenge TR 
Offwidth/chimney T 
Petroglyphs T,TR 
Route 11 T,TR 
Route 12 T,TR 
Route 13 T,TR 
Route 14 T,TR 
Route 15 T,TR 
Route 16 TR 
Route 17 T,TR 
Route 18 T,TR 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 21 T,TR 
Route 22 T,TR 
Route 3 T,TR 
Route 5 T,TR 
Route 6 TR 
Route 7 TR 
Route 8 T,TR 
Route 9 T,TR 
Three Sisters T,TR 

Route 17 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 480
Submitted By: Wa3lt on Mar 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

Up a bouldery start (crux) with tricky protection to a good ledge. The clean right-facing dihedral above is excellent and well-protected. The first obstacle is turning a 2' roof with jugs to a lieback, followed by sustained stemming in the corner. A brief and easier offwidth section concludes the climb.

Location 

Route #17 as shown in the South Side beta photo. Note, however, that this is listed as Route #16 in the Chen/Wehner online guide.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #19 (5.10c) and Jackson #15 (5.10a).

Protection 

Standard rack to 2.5 inches.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.


Comments on Route 17 Add Comment
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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

If you want to avoid the bouldery cruxy start to this climb but still enjoy the upper half at 5.9: Begin with the blocks/flakes as for climb 18, then move left on the ledge 20' up.