|Old New Place
Climb blocks to a finger crack on a right-leaning ramp, place good pro and mantle onto a pedestal (1st crux). Follow an easy handcrack up to the obvious left-leaning flake. Undercling/lieback out left on this flake to the top- the 2nd crux (A popular toprope variation is to step left as soon as you can after the mantle and climb the crimpy face and avoid using the flake).
A Direct Start variation (#11 in the photo) reaches the pedestal/prow from the right side- it's also .10a with pro that's better than it looks from the ground.
This climb is in the middle of the ONP, and is route 10 in Jason's ONP photo
The big left trending undercling flake up high is obvious.
Cams from finger size to fist.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 23, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
The direct start to this route is chock full of fun moves and highly recommended.
The big block in the crack at the bottom of the huge flake looks completely detached from the wall on all sides and scares me, actually. It doesn't wiggle at all but it boggles my mind as to how it's still there. I suggest not placing pro around it and not using it for holds--it's not difficult to not use it.