Climb blocks to a finger crack on a right-leaning ramp, place good pro and mantle onto a fin (crux). Follow the easy handcrack up to the obvious left-trending flake. Undercling/lieback out left on this flake to the top. (A popular toprope variation is to step left as soon as you can after the mantle and climb the crimpy face and avoid using the flake).
By Jason Halladay Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Mar 23, 2011 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
The direct start to this route is chock full of fun moves and highly recommended.
The big block in the crack at the bottom of the huge flake looks completely detached from the wall on all sides and scares me, actually. It doesn't wiggle at all but it boggles my mind as to how it's still there. I suggest not placing pro around it and not using it for holds--it's not difficult to not use it.