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Below The Old New Place
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 
Color of My Potion S 
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 
Greg Shredder T 
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 
Inflight Movie S 
Instant Dogma S 
L Dopa T 
Little Shop Of Horrors S 
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 
Manic Nirvana S 
Monsterpiece Theatre S 
Oscar de La Cholla T 
P.M.S. S 
Pathogenic Cysts S 
Polyester Terror T 
Putterman Cracks T 
Ralph's Dilemma T 
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 
Ralph's Revenge T 
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 
Route 1 T 
Route 22 T 
Route 24 T 
Route 25 S 
Route 26 T 
Route 27 S 
Route 31 S 
Route 32 T 
Sardonic Smile S 
Scandanavian Airlines S 
Strong Urge to Fly S 
Wailing Banshees S 

Route 1 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 560
Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Sussing out the holds around the roof. March 2010.

Description 

Start in the next obvious dihedral left of Putterman Cracks, and work your way up slabs with gear in a thin hands crack to a big roof. Turn this on the right (crux). Continue to the top, going generally straight up, passing a bolt on the way through a steeper section with big jugs.

Another decent crack at BONP, but it doesn't see much traffic. Longer than the other easier climbs here (Putterman Cracks, L-Dopa) and a step less difficult.

Location 

This climb is 10' left of Putterman Cracks and is listed as route #1 in Jemez Rock.

It is probably the left-most crack/corner one would consider climbing at BONP.

Protection 

1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 3". Maybe a #4 cam.
There's now a 2-bolt anchor at the top equipped for lowering.


Photos of Route 1 Slideshow Add Photo
After the roof the climbing gets a bit wide but th...
After the roof the climbing gets a bit wide but th...
George Perkins on the unknown dihedral left of Put...
BETA PHOTO: George Perkins on the unknown dihedral left of Put...

Comments on Route 1 Add Comment
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By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 24, 2008

There are two more ways to start this climb if you're top-roping or into unprotected leading/soloing:

The face just left of the dihedral is fun and of similar difficulty.

Also, moving right after the first couple moves and pulling a big roof is probably 11+ or 12- and is a one-move-wonder/better-bouldered-than-climbed option.