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Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) 
Color of My Potion 
Fat Boys Don't Fly 
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Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands 
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I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus 
Inflight Movie 
Instant Dogma 
L Dopa 
Little Shop Of Horrors 
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) 
Manic Nirvana 
Monsterpiece Theatre 
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Pathogenic Cysts 
Polyester Terror 
Putterman Cracks 
Ralph's Dilemma 
Ralph's Leisure Suit 
Ralph's Revenge 
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) 
Route 1 
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Sardonic Smile 
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Route 1 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 511
Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 30, 2008
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Sussing out the holds around the roof. March 2010.


Start in the next obvious dihedral left of Putterman Cracks, and work your way up slabs with gear in a thin hands crack to a big roof. Turn this on the right (crux). Continue to the top, going generally straight up, passing a bolt on the way through a steeper section with big jugs.

Another decent crack at BONP, but it doesn't see much traffic. Longer than the other easier climbs here (Putterman Cracks, L-Dopa) and a step less difficult.


This climb is 10' left of Putterman Cracks and is listed as route #1 in Jemez Rock.

It is probably the left-most crack/corner one would consider climbing at BONP.


1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 3". Maybe a #4 cam.
There's now a 2-bolt anchor at the top equipped for lowering.

Photos of Route 1 Slideshow Add Photo
After the roof the climbing gets a bit wide but there's enough on the face to keep it moderate. March 2010.
After the roof the climbing gets a bit wide but th...
George Perkins on the unknown dihedral left of Putterman Cracks. Courtney Porreca on the belay.
BETA PHOTO: George Perkins on the unknown dihedral left of Put...
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By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 24, 2008

There are two more ways to start this climb if you're top-roping or into unprotected leading/soloing:

The face just left of the dihedral is fun and of similar difficulty.

Also, moving right after the first couple moves and pulling a big roof is probably 11+ or 12- and is a one-move-wonder/better-bouldered-than-climbed option.