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Saddle Peak
Routes Sorted
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Block/Gully Var. S 
Christmas Chronicle S 
Last Dance S 
Richard's Rift T 
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 
Route 3 S 
Route 4 S 
Route 4 1/2 T 
Route 5 S 
Route 6 S 
Route 7 T,S 
Route 8 T,S 
Route 9 S 
Xeno Dance S 

Route 1 - R.I.P Arete 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,390
Submitted By: Michael Bartosek on Apr 4, 2009  with updates from Ancent

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Route 1 is shown on the left climbing the arete. T...

Description 

The route follows an arete at the edge of the formation - comibnation of face and arete climbing. The crux is moving through the last two bolts to the anchor. An easier option is to stay left on the arete or move slight right for a harder finish up the face.

Location 

1st route on the wall (left to right - looking at the wall). This route can be toproped as it is easy to hike to the top of the wall.

Protection 

5 bolts to a three bolt anchor with rap rings. The first bolt is approximately 15 feet off the ground with a bouldery start. Double length runners can protect around the horns between bolts 2 and 3. Especially since the grade is easy-ish, leaders in this range might want to know how to make the climb more comfortable.


Comments on Route 1 - R.I.P Arete Add Comment
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By Jimippa
From: Sherman Oaks, CA
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

Great route. Super run out, but the first 3 bolts are pretty easy. The last move makes you work a little and tests your nerves if your leading it. TR 5.4, Sport 5.7 in my opinion.


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By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Feb 6, 2012

This route isn't that run out. Just bring a double shoulder length sling for a horn inbetween the second and third bolts and it's pretty safe. Also the anchors are to the right so if someone is TRing it, bring a double shoulder for a horn at the top to protect the last moves for them.
By Maidy
Apr 15, 2012

Agree - Bring some long slings for mid route protection. If you want to top-rope this climb, you will need a cordalette to extend the anchor, and a long runner to sling the horn for a directional. Directional draws on the bolts for your TR are recommended since it is possible to take a pendulum swing off the edge of this climb.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Aug 10, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Thanks for the good advice Tristan, I took a double and totally used it.
By Ancent
Apr 19, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Bring longer slings for the bottom bolts to reduce rope drag. As Tristan said, the horns (two good ones) are an easy way to protect between bolts. The crux for me was the last couple of moves if you climb staying on the arete. The last bolt is around to your right on the face while delicate moves keep you on the arete. If no one is on the roof route, you can rap down that route.

Also, you don't change the rating based on TR or leading.
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