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R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Allison Fritz & Jason Halladay, August 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,158
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Aug 7, 2008

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Climbing through the thinnest part of the route.

Description 

R.O.U.S. is a clean face route on really good rock with a bit of thin face climbing before a small roof move near the top. Make some easy scrambling moves up six feet to a comfy stance, solid hand jam and the first bolt. Face climb on small holds through the crux of the route between bolts 2 and 3 using small pockets and edges past a couple more bolts up to a small ledge and small roof. It is here, under the roof, that R.O.U.S.es may be hiding. Move quickly! The well-protected mini-roof move is another crux to a super large ledge and the anchor.

Rodents Of Unusual Size (ROUS) reside in the Fire Swamp and attacked Princess Buttercup and her companion Westley when they bravely entered the Fire Swamp. If you're not familiar with R.O.U.S.es watch a short segment from the movie The Princess Bride. At about 6:13 minutes into the segment the R.O.U.S.es appear.


Location 

This route ascends the clean face to the right of Princess Buttercup.

Protection 

A generously protected route that would make for a good first sport lead. 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor equipped with carabiners. The left steel biner (with red gate) was installed on 1/30/11.


Photos of R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size) Slideshow Add Photo
Cody (6) cleaning gear, approaching the dreaded RO...
Cody (6) cleaning gear, approaching the dreaded RO...
Albuquerque local on R.O.U.S., taken on June 7th, ...
BETA PHOTO: Albuquerque local on R.O.U.S., taken on June 7th, ...

Comments on R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size) Add Comment
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By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Aug 11, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun route up small edges and pockets. Very well protected. For me the crux might have been the roof but it's a close race between that and some of the thin face moves down lower.
By scotthsu
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 19, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun climb. Thanks Jason and Allison for putting up the line! I did in fact encounter a ROUS, which I thought increased the difficulty of the route to at least 5.7+.
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Feb 21, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The R.O.U.S. may scare some...beware!!! Fun route and a great addition to Gallow's. Thanks Hallafritz (or Fritzaday if you prefer)
By scotthsu
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 27, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We didn't see any ROUS today! They either left for more fertile routes, or somebody absconded with them.
By Arthur Sullivan
From: Albuquerque,NM
Apr 9, 2010

The rodents are back. Not a good climb to take your gal up on the first date.
By Asa King
From: Mountain Home, ID
Nov 8, 2010

The rodents are gone again.