Type: Trad, Ice, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,135 total · 25/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


11 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This is a climb located 2 gullies west of The Shroud up another long gully. There are a number of ice bits that form here. This is probably the most reliable of the bits. Please, beware of avalanche conditions. Expect an aerobic approach.

Ascend this gully to a fork above. At the Y is a thin mixed climb, that often doesn't touch down. To the left is an easier WI3 pitch, name Unnamed Gully on this website. Round The Corner is up and right.

P1. A nice pillar, sometimes with funky, funky ice. Snapped off a pick in cold, cold conditions. 70 feet or so. 2 bolt anchors at the top of the 1st pitch, although they can be buried in the ice/snow.

P2. Above this 1st pitch lies another WI3 pitch. You can walk off left for the 2nd pitch back to the top of P1.

Aesthetic setting though you still see/hear I-70.

Note, at least one good climber has been taken on this climb from an avalanche.

Protection Suggest change

Ice screws, consider an Abalakov-like hook & spare sling.

Approach Suggest change

Probably an hour. Expect 1000' of gain.

ATES (Avalanche Terrain Exposure Scale) Rating Suggest change

As determined by Climb Avy Aware:

  • ATES 3: Complex

ATES Scale:

Non-Avalanche: 0 (Routes with no exposure to avalanches except small sluffs and spindrift.)

Simple: 1 (Routes with brief exposure to very low frequency avalanches starting from above or crossing occasional short slopes.)

Challenging: 2 (Routes with long exposure to low frequency avalanches or brief exposure to high frequency avalanches starting from above or crossing a few short slopes.Options to reduce exposure.)

Complex: 3 (Routes with long exposure to high frequency avalanches starting from above or crossing steep slopes with terrain traps below. Minimal options to reduce exposure.)

Extreme: 4 (Routes with long and sustained exposure to very high frequency avalanches starting from above and crossing multiple steep slopes with terrain traps below. No options to reduce exposure.)

Photos

loading