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Koala Rock
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Round River 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: Cool Summer Days
Page Views: 3,359
Submitted By: Mattyg on May 29, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Liz at the first bolt (~20+ ft)
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Three pitches of moderate sport climbing in a beautiful setting above the River. First pitch goes from large tree at the base up to anchors. Second pitch can go left of slab above anchors, or slab can go direct (5.7?). Third pitch goes left and around catwalk then up to the top.


Location 

Route is halfway (almost) up Burma Rd., east of Smith and above the canal.


Protection 

All bolts, with fixed anchors at belays. Finish w/ scramble to backside of rock for spicey single free-rap to uphill side of formation. 5.7 Variation on second pitch is sparsely bolted.



Photos of Round River Slideshow Add Photo
Original Round River route on Koala Rock.
BETA PHOTO: Original Round River route on Koala Rock.
Following the 5.7 variation at the Second pitch of Round river
BETA PHOTO: Following the 5.7 variation at the Second pitch of...
JohnK belaying Kara to the first pitch anchors of Round River.
JohnK belaying Kara to the first pitch anchors of ...
View from the first belay ledge. Nice little spot to relax.
View from the first belay ledge. Nice little spot ...
Comments on Round River Add Comment
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By mark d
May 31, 2006

this is not a sport route. only the first pitch is bolted.

By Danny Darby
From: Seattle, WA
Feb 16, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

1st pitch is all bolts. 2nd pitch starts with a couple of bolts and continues up the run out slab. Can use small stoppers here. You can link these two pitches if needed.
I recommend the Round River Direct 3rd pitch. 5.9 with plenty of bolts. From the top of the 2nd pitch you basically follow a line of shiny new bolts straight to the top of Koala Rock. Great pitch.

By corvegas
From: the depths of oregon
Mar 12, 2007

Link P1 and P2 with 60m to the nice belay ledge. Carry mabey 1 or 2 thin peices for the runout on P2, and mabey 1 or 2 larger peices for the last pitch.

By John Butters
From: Portland, Oregon
May 12, 2008

1st pitch has good bolts. 2nd pitch is protected for the first 20 feet, then nothing. I just carried a set up stoppers and was able to protect the 2nd pitch reasonably. 3rd pitch has no bolts if you stay true to "Round River" and don't end up moving over to "Round River Direct" (a 5.9 alternate ending that is well bolted.) I was able to protect the first 30 feet with stoppers but the last 40 feet was unprotectable to the top. A bit sketch but a great climb! Oh, and it is in the shade in the morning so bring layers!!!

By DWech
From: Fort Collins
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

This route is greatly improved with the addition of the direct finish. P1 and P2 (do this in 3 so as to hear your belayer) are no harder than 5.5 or so, but it's good to take some medium-to-large nuts for one placement on the long crack of P2. P3 (the direct finish) is runout a bit, but it's easy after the last bolt.

By live_it
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Jun 16, 2010

Had a blast on this route. Very easy climbing with plenty of bolts on the first pitch. 2nd pitch has potential nut and small cam placements, there was a nut stuck and I clipped it, didn't feel the need for any more pro. We did the Direct finish which I think is 5.8. Bolted very well (can't see all the bolts from the belay.) Rappelled off the backside which is a free rap, a great way to end the whole climb.

By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Jun 13, 2013

Fun route with great views.

Second pitch needs trad gear or you can just run it out like crazy on the giant potholes and low angle terrain to the anchor.

Third pitch variation is worth doing. Round River Direct is a nice 5.8 and is well bolted to the top with the crux at the second bolt.