This is a tough little problem starting from a sit with a left hand pinch/undercling on the arete and a very low right hand hueco. The climb uses numerous pinches on the arete and face to eventually gain the large hold just right of the arete and below the lip. The topout is one of the easiest on the wall. This problem has likely been climbed by very few, and it has recently been suggested to be a V9! The poor quality rock detracts from this otherwise challenging and good climb.
It is on the far left (South) arete of the Galley Wall.
A pad or two. Maybe a spotter to keep you out of the tree.
|By Patrick Manitou|
From: Atlanta, GAAAAA
Jan 29, 2012
Just got on this today, so I might be off, but this thing is a beast from the sit. I have no idea on grade, but thus far it feels a good bit harder than Pungase. Cool problem though, and the rock wasn't terrible.