Roter Punkt 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 7 pitches, 600 feet, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Colin Winter on Oct 21, 2008 |
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Pitch one: Daniele H finishing the thin moves.
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Description Another stellar route in the area, with small, positive holds on vertical terrain. The route presumably derives its name from a single, red plastic hold bolted on the rock in the magnificent third pitch, to keep the route at a homogeneous level of difficulty.
Pitch one: 6b, a thin crux on vertical rock, followed by a jungle-gym romp on slightly overhanging terrain, first up, than sharply to the right, to reach the belay.
Pitch two: 5c+, a brilliant pitch of face climbing on compact, vertical rock.
Pitch three: 6b+, the highlight of the route, a very long pitch ascending slightly overhanging rock on super-positive crimps, followed by an interesting, balancy ramp to gain the anchor. Take at least 16 quickdraws, or backclean a couple en route.
Pitch four: 5a, a mild scramble to reposition for the next pitch.
Pitch five: 6c, a very short, thin traverse defines the pitch and gives it the grade.
Pitch six: 6a, a fantastic technical pitch heading more or less straight up.
Pitch seven: 6b, superb climbing, with multiple distinctly challenging moves spaced between moderate terrain. The route then follows a technical corner up into a roof, concluding with a wild, pumpy hand traverse to skirt around underneath the roof to the anchor.
Location Proceed on the approach trail past the pillar with the meteorit route. Shortly thereafter, slightly uphill, a large red dot painted on the rock marks the route.
Descent is by straightforward abseil.
Protection The route is very well bolted. No complementary protection is required. Make sure to carry a very full rack of draws, or be ready to backclean / skip the odd bolt.
Pitch three: the steep face with small, positive h...
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A demanding finale to the route Roter Punkt
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