This area offers up some very tall walls for the Frankenjura. Some of the routes here are 35+ meters, which makes toproping here a little complicated sometimes. Not only does this area have some of the longest routes, but it also has some of the best in their grades. And since the wall faces Southeast it catches the morning sun and warms up early, and cools off later in the day. Route difficulties range from UIAA 5 to 9 (5.6 to 5.12d). This crag has a lot of history, so these routes are graded a bit hard. I'll do my best to give my opinion of the updated rating (despite personal qualms with doing so). The crag is divided into 5 sections. Unfortunately, the first section is closed from January 15 through July 31 for raptor nesting. That still leaves 38 routes available for climbing year-round. Due to the overhanging nature of this area, the entire area is generally good for climbing while it's raining. Most climbs are protected by the overhang or a roof at the top. Since they're not massively overhanging, your belayer could get a bit wet while you climb and stay dry.
If you'd like to take the train, you can get to Rupprechtstegen from Nuremberg. At the Rupprechtstegen stop, walk across the river and into town. Continue along the river in the northeast direction, crossing under the train tracks. You'll see a little foot bridge on your right which leads to the main hiker's/biker's trail and a good opportunity to take a picture of the crag from across the river. Also, you can access Emporwand and Zsigmondi Ged.-Wand from here. Anyway, to get to this crag, don't actually use the foot bridge, but continue walking past it and you'll see a parking lot on your left along with the crag which is right next to the road.
If you'd like to drive here, take the A9 from Nuremberg north towards Dresden/Bayreuth. Get off on exit 47 and head towards Hormersdorf. Before leaving Hormersdorf, take the left towards Menschhof and continue driving through it and Wallsdorf. Right as you leave Wallsdorf take the left road towards Raitenberg and Rupprechtstegen. When you get to Rupprechtstegen continue north towards Velden. After passing under the train bridge you'll see the parking on your left and the crag right on the side of the road.
This is a super classic line, and the good climbing just keeps going for a rope-stretching 120 ft (37m)! A 70m rope will just get you back to the ground. This is one of the best 7-s in the Frankenjura.Since this is a pretty well-traveled route, just follow the chalked holds straight up until you get up a ways, then trend right a bit towards the roof (follow the bolts). The climbing is pretty consistent 5.9 until right before the roof, where negotiating a small overhang is about 5.10b and from th...[more]Browse More Classics in International