Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This is a route I've been working on for a while now... In Memory Of Layton Kor, I would like to name this route Rosy II, as a continuation of his classic Rosy Crucifixion. With great classics like Grand Giraffe, Ruper, T2, and Jules Verne continuing from below the "Upper Ramp" to the top of the Red Garden Wall, why not a continuation of Rosy Crucifixion?!
Rosy II was recently up for vote and on review with the FHRC for a request to place 3 protection bolts. These 3 bolts have now been placed to make it a well-protected, but still bold, new, 2-pitch route. All 3 bolts were added to the 2nd pitch to make it a long and wild 135'-5.11a/b.
PITCH 1-(5.8-PG13) The 1st pitch of Rosy II is a super featured, plaque of patina, incut edges, huecos, and solid cracks. While most of the 1st pitch is only 5.6-5.7, it has the feel of being slightly runout because of its face climbing nature.... Solid, and sporadic placements appear to protect this pitch sufficiently, and it is a really fun start to this 2-pitch climb! I've led this pitch a few times and feel the gear is solid and sufficiently protects this 80' section. After the diagonal hand crack, step up right on the pocketed face and place a #4 CAMALOT in a hueco to protect the moderate stretch up to the slanting belay ledge.
PITCH 2- Protect the start of the 2nd pitch with a few pocket placements before gaining the challenging diagonal pod-like dike traverse. Place a CRUCIAL #4 CAMALOT in the constrictive pod before stepping up to clip the 1st bolt at the lower roof. Powerful and devious moves pull up onto positive jugs to surmount the large roof!(5.11a/b) Mantle up onto the "HEART" shaped horn and clip the 2nd bolt. Step left to follow edges past the bolt and up into the right-facing crack system above(5.10b). The 3rd bolt is placed over the lip of the upper roof to protect it's powerful and devious moves.(5.11a) Climb the right edge of the diamond shaped headwall to follow good rock and solid placements to the top! This is a well protected 135' pitch at 5.11b-ish.
"In August '13, with the encouragement of ACE's Joe Crotty, I led(headpointed) this 2nd pitch (135') with 1 pre-placed nut above the long runout, with an extra long sling (8') to mimic where the 2nd bolt would be placed. Natural cracks, pods, seams, and random slots appear the rest of the way to provide a spicey, but well-protected, exciting 2nd pitch. I placed 17 placements in 135'..."
This route starts just down the upper ramp from the "Italian Arete" and further down below Saint Augustine.... Also, about 20' up the ramp from the start to the upper Grand Giraffe.
Natural gear and 3 bolts protect this route.... Eldo rack with a few 3"-3 1/2" pieces. Also, include #4 CAMALOT for both pitches! Rated: pitch 1 - 5.8 PG-13, pitch 2 - 5.11a/b
Photos of Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) Slideshow
Super fun new line, thanks to the FAs for their eye and their work.
Did the route in one pitch, which seemed totally fine, as it's pretty much straight up. A set of Camalots up to #4, with doubles #0.75-2 and some stoppers, was adequate.
I probably didn't find all the pro that Drew did on the first pitch, or maybe I went the wrong way, because the first pitch felt more like 5.9R. Still a bit flaky and lichen-y in spots but overall good climbing with a feel similar to Alice in Bucketland or Body Tremors.
The second pitch was cash-money, steep and clean with fun moves and good pro.
While not that many new routes go up in the canyon these days, the ones that do are all gems!
Cool to hear you guys got up there to feel your way... freakin' wild! 1st pitch is scarcely protected if not on the line, but if you follow the S pattern, there are 9-10 pieces to place in 70'. 5.8+ to start, then mostly 5.7-8 the rest of the pitch. From the belay stance (small cave), climb up the ramp about 8-10' to start the 1st pitch. 2nd pitch is 135' of fairly full-on route finding and puzzle fitting... plus powerful too! Great to hear you did it in 1 pitch, Scott! Nice work! Let's get up there again.... LMKnow
Nice, way fun route, with beautiful huecos scattered throughout. I agree with Scott that the first pitch is pretty run out and solid 5.9 (or harder).... I probably took a somewhat different line than Scott, even though I was cleaning the occasional pro, but I didn't see the "5.8 PG-13" line at all. Lots of thick lichen and the occasional friable bits of rock in places yesterday, but this will be a 3-star route once it cleans up over time.
I thought the crux on the second pitch was that powerful Gaston move before getting to the first bolt. Felt like 5.11b for that move but no harder than 11a above that. Thanks to Drew for finding the line and adding it to the fine menu of Eldo climbs!
P.S. Seems odd that ACE suggested 3 bolts for the upper pitch but no bolts for the first?
Hey Steve, I do agree that the 1st pitch could probably have 1 or 2 bolts on it. I feel the gear is sufficient as it is, but if you're off route, it's not sufficient. ACE encouraged me to place 2 more bolts on the 2nd pitch from my original request of only 1 bolt. They thought having those bolts would help climbers "know where to go" up on the vast face of holds and options.... Make it "not so contrived and more of a desirable route". I did suggest, if that's why we're placing more bolts, then we should add 1-2 bolts for the 1st pitch too.... But I didn't press that thought because of the moderate climbing and the adequate gear, if you're on the correct line. From the belay stance at the bottom (small cave), don't step out right! Climb up the ramp for 8-10' and pull the bulge past the tick marks to start.... In the first 30', there are 5-6 placements that really protect you well....
By EDJ From: Eldorado Springs, Colorado Jun 21, 2014 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c PG13
Great new/old school adventure style route. It deserves to be popularized!
By Gregger Man Jul 24, 2014 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c R
I led the 1st pitch Tuesday - it's fun. The climbing is similar to Body Tremors but scarier due to fragile rock.
For the record, though: The application did not include any bolts on P1, and ACE did not push the issue of P1 bolts in either direction.
That's why I never got around to climbing P1 during the bolt application process for P2. I think P1 is 'R' rated, but that's the choice of the FA.