|Redgarden - Tower One
This is a route I've been working on for a while now... In Memory Of Layton Kor, I would like to name this route Rosy II, as a continuation of his classic Rosy Crucifixion. With great classics like Grand Giraffe, Ruper, T2, and Jules Verne continuing from below the "Upper Ramp" to the top of the Red Garden Wall, why not a continuation of Rosy Crucifixion?!
Rosy II is currently up for vote on the ACEELDO.org site for a request to place 3 protection bolts. These 3 bolts would make it a well-protected, but still bold, new, 2-pitch route. All 3 bolts will be added to the 2nd pitch to make is it a long, wild 135'-5.11a/b. The 1st bolt will protect the dramatic lower roof after a challenging traverse in a diagonal pod-like dike. Place a crucial #4 camalot in the constrictive pod before stepping up to clip the 1st bolt at the lower roof. Powerful and devious moves pull up onto positive jugs to surmount the large roof! Currently, there is a runout of about 16 feet on a beautifully clean face (5.10a/b) above the first roof of the 2nd pitch. The 2nd protection bolt would be placed right in the middle of the 16' section, allowing this blank section to be protected properly. Without this bolt, blowing it through this 5.10a/b section would result in a 25-30 footer... With the 2nd bolt being placed in this runout section, a "R" rating will no longer be suggested... The 3rd bolt will be placed over the lip of the upper roof to protect it's powerful and devious moves to make this pitch a well protected 135'-5.11-
In August '13, with the encouragement of ACE's Joe Crotty, I led(headpointed) this 2nd pitch (120') with 1 pre-placed nut above the long runout, with an extra long sling (8') to mimic where the bolt would be placed. I feel this pitch will be much safer with 1 bolt above the 1st roof, the 1 bolt protecting the long runout, and the last bolt over the upper roof. Natural cracks, pods, seams, and random slots appear the rest of the way to provide a spicey, but well-protected, exciting 2nd pitch. I placed 17 placements in 135'...
The "PG" rating comes from the moderate 5.8 1st pitch.... The 1st pitch of Rosy II is a super featured, plaque of patina, incut edges, huecos, and solid cracks. While most of the 1st pitch is only 5.6-5.7, it has the feel of being slightly runout because of its face climbing nature.... Solid, and sporadic placements appear to protect this pitch sufficiently, and it is a really fun start to this 2-pitch climb! I've led this pitch a few times and feel the gear is solid and sufficiently protects this 80' section....
This route starts just down the upper ramp from the "Italian Arete" and further down below Saint Augustine.... Also, about 20' up the ramp from the start to the upper Grand Giraffe.
Natural gear and 3 bolts will protect this route.... With these 3 bolts, the route will be safe and still spicey... rated: pitch 1 - 5.8 PG-13, pitch 2 - 5.10d/11a.
|Photos of Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) Slideshow
BETA PHOTO: 1st pitch of Rosy II.
BETA PHOTO: Rosy II shares the 1st belay with neighboring rout...
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