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Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) 
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Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Drew Spaulding, Aug.'13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 533
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Dec 30, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Rosy II climbs out to the right of The Italian Are...
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  • Description 

    This is a route I've been working on for a while now... In Memory Of Layton Kor, I would like to name this route Rosy II, as a continuation of his classic Rosy Crucifixion. With great classics like Grand Giraffe, Ruper, T2, and Jules Verne continuing from below the "Upper Ramp" to the top of the Red Garden Wall, why not a continuation of Rosy Crucifixion?!

    Rosy II was recently up for vote and on review with the FHRC for a request to place 3 protection bolts. These 3 bolts have now been placed to make it a well-protected, but still bold, new, 2-pitch route. All 3 bolts were added to the 2nd pitch to make it a long and wild 135'-5.11a/b.

    PITCH 1-(5.8-PG13) The 1st pitch of Rosy II is a super featured, plaque of patina, incut edges, huecos, and solid cracks. While most of the 1st pitch is only 5.6-5.7, it has the feel of being slightly runout because of its face climbing nature.... Solid, and sporadic placements appear to protect this pitch sufficiently, and it is a really fun start to this 2-pitch climb! I've led this pitch a few times and feel the gear is solid and sufficiently protects this 80' section. After the diagonal hand crack, step up right on the pocketed face and place a #4 CAMALOT in a hueco to protect the moderate stretch up to the slanting belay ledge.

    PITCH 2- Protect the start of the 2nd pitch with a few pocket placements before gaining the challenging diagonal pod-like dike traverse. Place a CRUCIAL #4 CAMALOT in the constrictive pod before stepping up to clip the 1st bolt at the lower roof. Powerful and devious moves pull up onto positive jugs to surmount the large roof!(5.11a/b) Mantle up onto the "HEART" shaped horn and clip the 2nd bolt. Step left to follow edges past the bolt and up into the right-facing crack system above(5.10b). The 3rd bolt is placed over the lip of the upper roof to protect it's powerful and devious moves.(5.11a) Climb the right edge of the diamond shaped headwall to follow good rock and solid placements to the top! This is a well protected 135' pitch at 5.11b-ish.

    "In August '13, with the encouragement of ACE's Joe Crotty, I led(headpointed) this 2nd pitch (135') with 1 pre-placed nut above the long runout, with an extra long sling (8') to mimic where the 2nd bolt would be placed. Natural cracks, pods, seams, and random slots appear the rest of the way to provide a spicey, but well-protected, exciting 2nd pitch. I placed 17 placements in 135'..."

    This route starts just down the upper ramp from the "Italian Arete" and further down below Saint Augustine.... Also, about 20' up the ramp from the start to the upper Grand Giraffe.


    Protection  

    Natural gear and 3 bolts protect this route.... Eldo rack with a few 3"-3 1/2" pieces. Also, include #4 CAMALOT for both pitches! Rated: pitch 1 - 5.8 PG-13, pitch 2 - 5.11a/b



    Photos of Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) Slideshow Add Photo
    2nd pitch.
    BETA PHOTO: 2nd pitch.
    End of 1st pitch, belay ledge, and the start of the 2nd pitch.
    BETA PHOTO: End of 1st pitch, belay ledge, and the start of th...
    Start of 1st pitch.
    BETA PHOTO: Start of 1st pitch.
    1st pitch of Rosy II.
    BETA PHOTO: 1st pitch of Rosy II.
    Rosy II shares the 1st belay with neighboring routes....
    BETA PHOTO: Rosy II shares the 1st belay with neighboring rout...
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