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Roshambo Ledge
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Roshambo 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Winslow, Schlocker, Braihland
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall
Page Views: 1,274
Submitted By: mschlocker on Sep 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Climbers on P2 of Roshambo

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  • Description 

    2 fairly long pitches of crack climbing up the center of the Ramona wall. From fingers to chimney and everyting in between.

    P1(10a) Up the steep wide hands crack to a chimney with small gear in the back. After the chimney up and left to a comfy belay ledge at the base of the P2 dihedral. Alternatively, traverse left before squeezing into the chimney to gain a hand crack which leads directly up to the same belay.

    P2(9) Clean but slippery finger crack in a right facing dihedral. Near the top the route follows broken rock right around a roof. Build a gear anchor or, only if nobody is below you, set a belay at the rap station ~40 feet out right.

    Walk to climbers right ~40 feet to a rap station that is a rope stretcher with a 60 meter rope back to Roshambo ledge. Be very careful at the end of this very long rappel.

    Location 

    Starts at the far left side of the Roshambo Ledge. Short 4th class approach. The lower pitch starts at the steep hand crack and the upper pitch is a clean right facing dihedral that can be seen from the ground.

    Protection 

    Small to 3".

    Route Name History 

    Mark, Dan and I played Roshambo (rock-paper-scissors) for the pitches on the FA.


    Photos of Roshambo Slideshow Add Photo
    Mark W tunneling through P1 of Roshambo.
    Mark W tunneling through P1 of Roshambo.
    Dan giving me a solid belay on the FA Roshambo, P2.
    Dan giving me a solid belay on the FA Roshambo, P2...
    Climber leading the stellar Pitch 2 finger crack on Roshambo
    Climber leading the stellar Pitch 2 finger crack o...
    Pitch1 (popular variation) of Roshambo.  Arguably the best route of the Ramona Wall.
    Pitch1 (popular variation) of Roshambo. Arguably ...
    looking back down the lower part of 2nd pitch from under roof
    BETA PHOTO: looking back down the lower part of 2nd pitch from...

    Comments on Roshambo Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By mschlocker
    From: San Diego, CA
    Oct 4, 2010

    For P1 you can traverse left out of the base of the chimney to climb up more 10a hand crack as a good variation. This is probably safer but more difficult than the chimney which is a little run out up top.
    By jeffblankman
    From: San Diego, Ca
    Dec 10, 2013
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    TRd this today for sake of time and to check it out: can't wait to get back and lead it. P2 is quality IMO, but I found it to be pretty easy at 5.9--finger locks aplenty and nice textured face out right (not too vertical) for feet. It would eat nuts. Lower crack on P1 including the "alt" to the chimney were pretty straight forward and would be easy to protect. I have pretty average (even smallish) hands and the initial crack seemed perfect size. Very textured and secure, if a bit bulgy/overhung. The upper P1 crack (alt route) seemed a bit tough at first because it' s shallow and broken--then you notice the great feet. It's thoughtful, but not really powerful or "hard".