|337 page views|
This line was the hardest established line in Crystal Cave until recently when Cody Roth did the lines with the alternate finishes out the roof. Featured in the 2009 Real Rock Film Tour Contest this line was originally considered 13d, however some alternate beta reduces the crux down to a more manageable V8 or V9 and in my opinion 13c.
Start just right of Dope, further back in the cave, on a positive shelf reached from cheater stones. From here make entertaining gymnastic moves on mostly good holds to get up to the crux. Some creative footwork makes this section easier. From here pull the powerful crux (V8 or so) to gain the rest stance on Dope. Rest up and fire the rest of Dope for the send.
Starts just to the right of Dope on obvious jugs above cheater stones.
7 Bolts to Anchors all fixed. Stickclip, draw for belay bolt.
The V9 start to
Ed's Alternate finish after
Rosebud (5.14a) -SENT!
May 7, 2012
while tightening the 4th and 5th nuts on Dope that like to loosen themselves, we discovered that the entire bolts are loose and can be moved up and down.