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Roped Lead Soloing
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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 8, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.
I have climbed roped solo for awhile now using a few diff rigs with great success and really like it.

Have used both of these rigs:

A) GriGri2 & Knot Back Ups

B) GriGri 2 and Mini Traxion Back Up

C) Ascender and Mini Traxion Back Up

All of these have been on climbs 90 ft or less from a top rope (rope from above - 2 strands).

However, I would like to now progress to doing some system for easy lead climbing NOT on a top rope. I know there are devices like The Soloist and such but would rather not drop $250 for a device.

Anyone had any luck with some other rigging?

FLAG
By Elush
From CA
Apr 8, 2013
Top of Half Dome, after climbing Snake Dike
Silent partner-$254.00


Yer gonna die!


mountaingear.com/webstore/Gear...

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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 8, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.
We're ALL gonna die bro! As a RN - I've learned - 'It is just a matter of WHEN and by which method!'

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By cjon3s
From Sterling, VA
Apr 8, 2013
Hanging at Seneca
Elush wrote:
Silent partner-$254.00 Yer gonna die! mountaingear.com/webstore/Gear...


I second this. You gotta pay to play.

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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 8, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.
Well,
if it works and works well, then $250 is worth it.

Looks like the Owner's Manual I found online def recommends backup knots as well....

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By ParkerKempf
From atlanta, GA
Apr 8, 2013
sweet belay on El Cap Spire, Salathe Wall El Capitan
silent partner is definitely the best....yer gonnie die using a soloist...
shell out the cash and dont look back, if i ever dropped mine id buy another one ASAP, from all the methods and rigs ive tried, the SP is hands down the best

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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 8, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.
ParkerKempf wrote:
silent partner is definitely the best....yer gonnie die using a soloist... shell out the cash and dont look back, if i ever dropped mine id buy another one ASAP, from all the methods and rigs ive tried, the SP is hands down the best


OK, thanks guys. Silent Partner it IS!

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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 8, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.
Ooops! I had thought that the Silent Partner and the Soloist were 'one in the same!' LOL.

I guess not!

FLAG
 
By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Apr 10, 2013
Well you can't do lead roped soling with the mintrax or ascender. So either GriGri or Silent Partner.

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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 10, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.
NorCalNomad wrote:
Well you can't do lead roped soling with the mintrax or ascender. So either GriGri or Silent Partner.


That's why I just purchased a Silent Partner.

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By John Husky
Apr 11, 2013
Get you a partner. A real live talking partner.

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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 12, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.
John Husky wrote:
Get you a partner. A real live talking partner.


I have several John - but as a RN - MY hours are all over the place versus others who work Mon-Friday - mainly DAYS - and such IS NOT the life nor schedule of a RN by far.

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By justfly
May 8, 2013
justfly
I have used the original petzl reverso for some time now , always caught me ......I'm still here
I am now using the new "reverso 4" sits slightly differently but works well .A bit of a mission when one is traversing .I don't use backup knots , but I'm happy with that (yes I know "your gonna DIE" but don't tell my mom)
Have used grigri and "modified" grigri but don't like the moving parts

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By Thomas Beck
From Las Vegas, Nevada
May 8, 2013
beck on limestone
I sold my Soloist on eBay.

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By climbinbob
Jul 20, 2013
I use a Soloist-just be sure sure you understand (REALLY UNDERSTAND) rigging. You must use a chest harness. I improvise mine from a 48" runner, and tie it short across the chest. This is to protect you from an upside-down fall. It does have it's limitations as it's not good when heel-hooking, or on low-angle slab. Best use on really vertical rock. Tie knots in the free end for safety, take some practice falls down low and you should be fine. Practice on something on which you feel TOTALLY confident-i.e. will not fall. I also recommend a beefy rope so the mechanism inside the device has something to catch on. Good luck!

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By JacksonLandFill
From Maryland
Aug 26, 2013
not everyone smiles
Clove hitch or Silent partner.

There are several SP's in the for sale forum.

I realized this needed clarification.... When I arrived at the same place I chose the method I decided was the safest(doesn't mean it's actually safe) to adpot. Since then I spent lots of time on the ground working on rope managment among other things like racking gear and use of right or left hands. SELF RESCUE is paramount. I have spent more time on self rescue than anything else since adopting solo climbing. Paid off because I have had to use it.

Gear is cool. Solo is cool. But if you aren't 100% certain of your method and technique don't even try it. Toproping while mock leading is a perfectly acceptable way to learn... allbeit a bulky one.


When in doubt: bail, work it out on the ground. Be safe.

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By Scott Scharfenberg
From Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 23, 2013
I recently tried the clove hitch method on a super-easy route at Yosemite. I found it to be a HUGE lesson in rope management. It's incredibly easy to get in a cluster-fuck and it won't provide a stellar catch if you fall (the clove hitch catches much more statically than a human or a Silent Partner and can load your pro pretty hard).

Unless I were to really, REALLY practice this method a lot, I wouldn't try using it on anything harder than what I'm comfortable free-soloing.

I haven't used a Silent Partner, but they seem like the best option by far. If you want to climb solo, shell out the extra money and be safe. It's literally your life on the line.

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By Mark Pilate
Sep 23, 2013
crikey, been usin' a Soloist all these years outta sheer ignorance...Agree its putzy and ya gotta pay attention. Though I have never had any issues with it, I would never recommend it outright to someone who asked....specially since its my only reference point.

Based on above responses, I'm lookin into an SP


NYClimber -- assuming you're still alive in a few weeks, post your experience with the SP

FLAG


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