Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Rope Soloing Ice
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Dec 28, 2012
Flakey Pull Roof v5
Never really seen this one brought up before.
Please link it if there is another thread about this.
I feel like a standard rock TR setup would work pretty well (you always have the backup knots if the main device fails.)
However, most people just seem to free solo instead of rigging ropes.
Who's done it?
Seems like to Silent Partner would be the most iced up rope proof(ish.)
logan johnson
From West Copper, Co
Joined Mar 1, 2006
332 points
Dec 28, 2012
top of mt. lady washington - rmnp
I've seen it done in the ouray ice park but didn't look closely enough to see their specific setup. Andrew Mayer
Joined Nov 14, 2010
55 points
Dec 28, 2012
on top of the RNWF June 2012
If you actually fall on a solo belaying system on ice you'll really be wishing for a partner to get your broken body to the hospital. good luck self rescuing with two broken ankles. If you're gonna solo do it on something well within your abilities and enjoy moving without the bother of a rope. Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Feb 8, 2010
217 points
Dec 28, 2012
Roped solo TR is no big deal using any of the usual setups. Just keep the device dry (i.e. no slush on the rope). If you periodically clip into a second rope as a backup, this can result in a bight of rope below your feet, which Murphy's Law says WILL snag on an icicle at the worst possible moment. BTDT. Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
1,651 points
Dec 28, 2012
Keenan Waeschle wrote:
If you actually fall on a solo belaying system on ice you'll really be wishing for a partner to get your broken body to the hospital.


The OP is referring to solo TRing, are you referring to a fall on a lead solo system? The reason I ask is because I've taken dozens of "falls" on my solo TR setup with absolutely no problems. I've logged over a few hundred pitches on my TR setup with no worries, great way to get pumped and run laps without having to bring a partner along.
Bud Martin
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Apr 15, 2010
403 points
Dec 28, 2012
The rope soloing is pretty straight forward. Fix a line and use an ushba or a gri. I've used both for years without problem. Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,494 points
Dec 28, 2012
Flakey Pull Roof v5
I was kind of leaving it open to see how or if people do either TR or leading.
For my uses I am looking to TR.

Good advice Mike, didn't think about the loops snagging. Might be best to go Petzl style and use two devices instead of knots.

"I've logged over a few hundred pitches on my TR setup with no worries, great way to get pumped and run laps without having to bring a partner along."
What's you setup Bud? Any tips?
logan johnson
From West Copper, Co
Joined Mar 1, 2006
332 points
Dec 28, 2012
Bolton, VT
I've done it on the soloist, easy setup and great to get in a bunch of routes quickly...same as for rock obviously Nick Votto
Joined Jul 27, 2008
276 points
Dec 28, 2012
logan johnson wrote:
What's you setup Bud? Any tips?


Single line hanging with some weight on the end. Single minitraxion on belay loop with shock cord girth hitched around the device and looped over my neck. The shock cord is not load bearing at all, it simply keeps the device up (around my belly button) so that the fall is shorter.

I don't use backups and just use a single device. Some folks at the crag tell me I'm going to die. Like I said, I have a good amount of mileage on this system with not a single problem. I've used a minitrax on pretty iced up lines and it worked great.
Bud Martin
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Apr 15, 2010
403 points
Dec 28, 2012
The silent partner is not recommended for use in freezing conditions or with icy ropes. Frozen water inside the clutch can prevent it from locking and ice on the rope can interfere with the clove hitch cinching down properly. Daniel Winder
Joined Jul 13, 2009
109 points
Dec 28, 2012
on top of the RNWF June 2012
I was referring to roped solo leading. Yeah, TR soloing on ice is super chill, I'll shut up now. Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Feb 8, 2010
217 points
Dec 28, 2012
I favor toothed devices over camming devices for icy ropes, but I am just speculating. Eric G.
From Saratoga Springs, NY
Joined Apr 18, 2012
53 points
Dec 28, 2012
I've used a petzl ascension countless times in easy routes. Just backed it up with another petzl traxion. Never has let me down thus far. But I've never fallen because I only use it up to wi4. akafaultline
Joined Nov 27, 2007
70 points
Dec 28, 2012
Flakey Pull Roof v5
Good info everyone. Very good point about the SP clutch freezing.
I'm thinking Minitrax backed up with a GriGri.
I have never been a fan of rope soloing with toothed devices, but with ice I don't plan on taking multiple (if any) falls.
As far as just using one device with no backup, that is a no-go in my book. I know a lot of people are cool with it but backup knots have saved my ass twice.
logan johnson
From West Copper, Co
Joined Mar 1, 2006
332 points
Dec 28, 2012
I use a micro traxion off my belay loop and girth hitch a 12" sling through my harness with a tibloc on the end to trail behind. I would use something else to back it up if I had it. I typically coil the rope so that it is hanging just off the ground, but I see some folks put an ice screw in at the bottom and clip to it. I just rap with a gri gri and get pitches in until my rope ices up. T Howes
From Sisters, OR
Joined Dec 13, 2010
12 points
Dec 28, 2012
taking the steep line
mini traction,spinner leashes,substitute backup knots for freedom to climb. Erik Eriksson
Joined Sep 18, 2011
16 points
Dec 28, 2012
dirt bagging around cody
Ive done it with 2 lines. 1 with knots clipped into harness as backup and 1 with a jumar and weight at the bottom. when the rope ices up this setup becomes kinda scary. Nate K
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Jul 1, 2012
103 points
Jan 2, 2013
It's a great way to log a lot of vertical mileage without freezing or boring your partner. No better way for training, IMO. (I refer to TR solo, not lead solo)

I anchor the rope in the middle, and drop both sides of the rope. Clip a mini-traxion to one strand and an ascender to the other strand. Has worked great for me, runs smoothly.

I just got a petzl shunt, which I plan to use instead of the ascender.
JohnnyG
Joined Nov 30, 2009
27 points
Jan 2, 2013
Tom Howes wrote:
I use a micro traxion off my belay loop and girth hitch a 12" sling through my harness with a tibloc on the end to trail behind.


Well that's a good way to either destroy your rope or yourself with that tibloc. You'd be better off with just clipping knots for backups. You might want to read the instructions on that tibloc a time or two more.
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Jan 2, 2013
Bud Martin wrote:
Single line hanging with some weight on the end. Single minitraxion on belay loop with shock cord girth hitched around the device and looped over my neck. The shock cord is not load bearing at all, it simply keeps the device up (around my belly button) so that the fall is shorter. I don't use backups and just use a single device. Some folks at the crag tell me I'm going to die. Like I said, I have a good amount of mileage on this system with not a single problem. I've used a minitrax on pretty iced up lines and it worked great.



Mine is similar set up,
-Fixed a line on an anchor with a fig 8 to opposed lokers. Anchor is useall a tree or the chain atop G1 , Rap off the single line.
-Bundle the remaining rope a foot of the ground (acts as the weight)
-locking biner on one micro traxion (they feed much smoohter than the mini)to belay loop and climb.
rap off (use atc), lather, rinse and repete till pumped out.
-head home knowing that you did more laps than if you were changing belays
Jeff J
From Bozeman
Joined Sep 15, 2010
108 points
Jan 2, 2013
Lamb's Slide
I use the same system I use for autobelaying on rock: fix both strands to a top-rope anchor (e.g. using a fig 8 on a bight), clip an USHBA to my belay loop on one strand, and clip a Petzl Microcender to the second strand, as a backup (per Petzl's recommendation "Installation on the harness with two ascenders" at petzl.com/en/outdoor/self-bela... ). I weight the ropes with my pack and am ready to climb.

I was fortunate to find one of the last available USHBA devices before they were discontinued; it supposedly works well on muddy and even icy ropes, and I like using ascending devices without teeth.

It does take a minute to switch to an ATC Guide for rappelling; also I carry a foot Prusik cord in case I get stuck half way up (which happened on Monday when the ice I was hoping to climb was already full, so I tried a challenging mixed route nearby -- damn, you can get pumped out fast when drytooling!).
Rocky_Mtn_High
From Arvada, CO
Joined Apr 14, 2010
195 points
Jan 2, 2013
I tr solo with a gri-gri on a single fixed strand. I tie back up knots every now and then. I don't clip my knots, but figure they'll act as stoppers if my gri gri were to fail. I've never had trouble with it not gripping on the rope though, even on my 9.1mm dry treated rope.

I would prefer a system that self feeds, like an ascender or mini trax, but I don't tr solo enough to buy dedicated gear, and I'd rather not tr solo on my ascenders.
John D
Joined Nov 24, 2010
21 points
Jan 11, 2013
I use minitraxion on a single strand with long sling around my shoulders to keep the device up. I've used it a lot for both rock and ice and have never had an issue.
You do need to do a few things though like file off the lock back tab so it doesn't open and stay open. It is also recommended that you use a steel locking carabiner to your belay loop. And in previous posts someone mentioned backing it up with a grigri which does not work because the device no longer feeds. If you're worried about one device run two minitraxions in sequence or an ascender as others have said.
garrettem
Joined Mar 28, 2008
591 points
Jan 15, 2013
just playing
The mini traxon is the way to go on a icy rope. I have used this with a fixed line and a back pack to weight the other end but still pull it up if i want. I place my traxon at my waist some times with a screamer and just push it up with my knee when i move. tom mahr
From s. lake
Joined Jan 15, 2013
10 points
Jan 15, 2013
garrettem wrote:
It is also recommended that you use a steel locking carabiner to your belay loop.


Why?
gearwhore
From Orange, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2011
6 points
Jan 15, 2013
Regarding the mini traxion, this is from Petzl's Website.

Use of the MINI TRAXION pulley:
Warning!
Petzl has studied the current usage of the MINI TRAXION as a self-belay device on a fixed rope. Serious accidents and many handling errors have been reported.

The risk of using the device with the cam held open is significant, as well as the possibility of accidental opening of the cam when climbing.

Consequently, the MINI TRAXION must be paired with a different ascender: ASCENSION, BASIC, MICROCENDER...
Petzl does not recommend using a system consisting of only two MINI TRAXION for selfbelayed solo climbing with a fixed rope.
J. Surette
From Denver, CO
Joined Sep 18, 2009
32 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!