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Rope set up help
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By Grey
May 30, 2013

Ive done some lead climbing and I know how to clip and set an anchor. But my question is, when I am lowered back to the ground how do I set the rope up for the next climber?
Do I unclip all of the quick draws on my way down? I know the climber on TR should be closest to the rock. So if the rope closest to the rock is through the draws, how to I set it up right? Thanks!


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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
May 31, 2013
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

Lowering and belaying from the start of the route isn't any different than bringing your second up... your second is responsible for "cleaning" the route, regardless of where you belay him from.

Go get it!


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By Alex Mitchell
From Cincinnati, OH
May 31, 2013
Me Climbing

Have the second tie into the opposite end of the rope than the one you lead on. He will climb up pulling off the draws as he goes. If the route is not vertical or is over hanging this keeps the top roper from swinging as far.


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By ChaseLeoncini
From San Diego, California
May 31, 2013
El Cajon Mtn. Leonids. 5.9.

Im assuming your talking about short sport routes. Im also assuming you know how to set anchors properly as well as rappel (from chains) and safely lower (from created anchor lockers).
1: You lead
2: Set Anchor
3: Be lowered (from locker/s in master point in anchor)
4: Two options:
A: Pull rope you lowered on out until the belayers end is just hanging off the floor. Your next climber unclips draws on the way up.
B: Pull other side of rope all the way out and he leads.
5*: If you do take the draws out on the way down, your next climber wont need to unclip them. That's also fine.

Im sure theres plenty of other ways but most climbers run it the ways listed above.

I feel like this is somewhat of a silly question if you know how to anchor and lead already.

Climb safe.

EDIT: Also, the climber side of the rope should be close to the rock but the world wont end if you accidentally go up the wrong one. . . usually.


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By Grey
May 31, 2013

Thank you. I was trying to explain to someone but I realized I didn't even know. I meant Clipping draws and anchoring to the existing anchor. Yes just short sport routes for now.


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By shotwell
May 31, 2013

ChaseLeoncini wrote:
EDIT: Also, the climber side of the rope should be close to the rock but the world wont end if you accidentally go up the wrong one. . . usually.


This is very untrue in more modern sport climbing locations. For example, the Red River Gorge has slightly overhanging 5.7s that will swing you in to a tree if you tie into the wrong side. Climbers must be aware for swing potential in any steep top roping situation.

I know you put usually on your post, and that is probably pretty true here in California. It will almost always be potentially disastrous in the Southeast.


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By ChaseLeoncini
From San Diego, California
May 31, 2013
El Cajon Mtn. Leonids. 5.9.

@shotwell
I put "usually," yes, but that is still great info for the OP. Thanks!


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By Pat Cooper
May 31, 2013

It depends. If the climb is basically straight and less than vertical, you can pull your pro as you are lowered. Then the TR climber can enjoy the route in it's rawest form. If you have way more rope than climb, the TR climber should tie in where you untied, unless you want to pull all the extra rope thru your anchor. If you leave pro, then he/she has to stop, rack, maybe drop something, etc. And if he/she might bury a cam or can't get a piece out, you have to reclimb it. But if the route is overhanging or moves much horizontally, you need to leave some 'directional' pieces to protect all climbers, just like you did for yourself on lead. The TR climber should tie in to this side. (I think this is what ChaseLeoncini and Shotwell are talking about.) Also, if you chose to rap, you'll get stopped by your each piece. Instead of unclipping, just clean as you go.


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