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This is a fun route that deserves more traffic. Find it on the SE corner of the main Rock of Ages cliff: a thin crack on a hanging slab, above an overhang. It's somewhat dirty, but not as bad as it looks, and the moves are super fun. An overhanging boulder problem start past fixed gear leads to a good rest; the finger crack above is pretty solid 5.11 and gear is pumpy to place. Save some guns for the finger stacks at the end! The route as a whole is safe to lead but somewhat spicy.
The anchor is 2 thin, partially driven pins. It's hard to back up, and in my opinion is just barely adequate; a # of other anchors in this area consist of one bolt and one pin, and I think this anchor could benefit from the addition of a bolt. At any rate, be prepared to leave some webbing as this thing doesn't seem to get done very often.
1 fixed rp + 1 fixed pin, then standard rack (heavy on thin stuff)
|By topher donahue|
Mar 1, 2009
Drilled a bolt at the anchor, so it is now a piton and bolt anchor.