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Rope-only anchoring

Original Post
Le gion · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 15

In posts about anchoring methods, there is always a comment like "just use your rope". That is my preference as well since my brain needs simplicity.

So I'm offering this up as the most uber-simple (but reasonably safe) method... rope-only with one clove hitch. Did I see this suggested in some climbing literature or will no one want to climb with me again?!

Rope-only anchoring ok?

Pretend the first biner is the harness. And once the pro are in, you just clip into the biners and finish it off with a clove hitch. I realize this isn't the "ideal" anchor, but again I'm shooting for simplicity and reasonable safety so I can't think of anything easier than this IN CERTAIN SITUATIONS.

P LaDouche · · CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 15

It could be much more simple by using all clove hitches. adjustable too.

Reed Fee · · White Salmon WA · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 155

I would be pissed if I was at the end of a long pitch within sight of a good belay stance and didnt have enough rope to get there. I prefer using just the rope but there are simpler ways to do it. Figure eight to your most solid peice then clove hitch and equalize to the next two.

EAG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 0

Whoa! That looks complicated. Try a equalizing figure eight. You can use 2 loops or 3 to your anchor points. The knot is very easy to tie and adjust to varying lengths to your anchor points. Here's a description of the knot: Depending on the distance between anchor points will determin how much of a bite of rope you need to use. OK so you grab a bite of rope and tie a figure eight. The loop of rope at the end goes back through the top part of the figure eight. As I said before you can adjust each one of the 3 possible loops(or use only 2 loops)to your anchor points. Very simple and quick but does use a fair amount of rope. climbing.about.com/od/climb…

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,197

That really is not any faster than equalizing at the pieces, plus it looks like if the middle piece blows you have about a 6 foot extension to deal with. The equalized 8 or bunny ear knot is a much faster and cleaner setup.

Really, the idea of using the rope for your main anchor is to be able to utilize it's dynamic properties when catching a big fall. Not make complicated rope art.

The following would be one way to simplify your setup:
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Andrew Sharpe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 25

+1 for the equalizing figure 8. I was shown that a few months ago and it blew my mind.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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