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Rope middle mark with dental floss
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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Oct 14, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

Dunno where I got this, but I just found it on my computer so I thought I'd pass it on.

If you do this, make sure to soak for dental floss in battery acid for at least 24 hours prior to installation. It makes it totally bomber.

Dental floss mid-rope mark.
Dental floss mid-rope mark.








































Full disclosure and disclaimer: You will die if you soak the dental floss in battery acid.


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 14, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

I recently sewed some dental floss through the middle of a rope and within a few days of usage the strands I left sticking out a few centimeters were completely worn down so that I could no longer see them, rendering them useless. I have since gone back to using a very red marker.


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By ChristopherAust
From Ohio
Oct 14, 2012
omg

Marc H wrote:
Dunno where I got this, but I just found it on my computer so I thought I'd pass it on. If you do this, make sure to soak for dental floss in battery acid for at least 24 hours prior to installation. It makes it totally bomber. Full disclosure and disclaimer: You will die if you soak the dental floss in battery acid.

You will only die if you soak the floss if you forget to soak the rope. Everyone (I hope) knows that a good rope must be flaked and allowed to marinate in battery acid for at least 8 hours before use.

Stich wrote:
I recently sewed some dental floss through the middle of a rope and within a few days of usage the strands I left sticking out a few centimeters were completely worn down so that I could no longer see them, rendering them useless. I have since gone back to using a very red marker.

That happened to the little fuzzers Metolious foolishly uses to mark the center of their ropes after one TR setting for me. Someone makes rope-safe marking paint that might be a good idea.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 14, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

swordfishes wrote:
You will only die if you soak the floss if you forget to soak the rope. Everyone (I hope) knows that a good rope must be flaked and allowed to marinate in battery acid for at least 8 hours before use. That happened to the little fuzzers Metolious foolishly uses to mark the center of their ropes after one TR setting for me. Someone makes rope-safe marking paint that might be a good idea.


sharpie markers are perfectly rope safe


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By Ryan N
From San Louis Obispo
Oct 14, 2012
RJN

I have found the best middle marker. I use a masons string line which comes in hot pink, and against my blackish rope it really stands out. You can take the individual paired fibers apart easily and you end up with a thickness similar to dental floss. It's a nylon string so although it does fray, but it's very durable and since I did it 6 months ago I haven't replaced it. I find that most times I notice the marker not by sight but by feeling it in my hand. That's my 2 cents...


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Oct 14, 2012
Bocan

swordfishes wrote:
That happened to the little fuzzers Metolious foolishly uses to mark the center of their ropes after one TR setting for me. Someone makes rope-safe marking paint that might be a good idea.


At first I didn't really care for the Metolius markers, but on a dark blue rope I can see the hot pink threads way off.

I actually really appreciate it now.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 14, 2012

bi-color ropes- worth every penny.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 14, 2012
...

The way I make my "Middle mark" is when I buy a new rope, I measure it to the middle, then cut it in half. That way it's always the same length on both sides.








EDITED:

"bi-color ropes- worth every penny."


Only if yer a SWINGER...


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By Zappatista
Oct 14, 2012
Book me, officer.

Bluewater's one of my favorite rope companies, they have helped us ASCA bolt folk out with a bunch of donations, make super durable ropes, and are a Southern company, bonus points where I'm concerned.

If you dink around on their site some they have some interesting stuff to read, including endorsing the Sharpie "Rub-A-Dub" laundry marker for touching up/adding middle marks.

Bought one online for two bucks, couldn't be happier. Definitely a different formula than regular sharpies, I have used a red for visibility recently but regular sharpies fade fairly quickly. The Rub-a-Dub marker goes on heavy and doesn't wash out. Pretty sweet for minimal expense and knowing for sure that it isn't acting like battery acid on your rope.


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Oct 14, 2012
Cleo's Needle

John Wilder wrote:
bi-color ropes- worth every penny.


I have a Mammut Duodess Infinity and the bi-pattern is worthless, especially in low light. I marked the center with a Sharpie Rub-A-Dub. Maybe if a company makes a rope that is two completely different colors I'll change my mind but I won't buy another bi-pattern rope.


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By bearbreeder
Oct 14, 2012

beal rope marker ...

when in doubt, simply find the middle from both ends...

i dont bother with duodess anymore ... nor do most people i know ... i prefer to spend < 100$ on a rope rather than 200$+ ... and climb more with the money saved ...


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Oct 14, 2012
Cleo's Needle

bearbreeder wrote:
beal rope marker ... when in doubt, simply find the middle from both ends... i dont bother with duodess anymore ... nor do most people i know ... i prefer to spend < 100$ on a rope rather than 200$+ ... and climb more with the money saved ...


I paid $150 for it, BAM!


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By Bill McKirgan
Administrator
From Cedar Rapids, IA
Oct 14, 2012
Iko

great illustration!


I like this way of marking the middle of my ropes because you can feel the mark while handling the rope, and also it's easier for me to see this kind of mark vs the point where those fancy ropes change pattern (gives me a headache).


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By bearbreeder
Oct 15, 2012

Ray Pinpillage wrote:
I paid $150 for it, BAM!


i pay 85$ for my main ropes ... SLAM !

=P


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By OAW
Oct 15, 2012

Just mark it well with a sharpy... It's what the rope companies do. I've been doing it for many years and have had no problems. Got it straight from a Petzl tech rep as well.

Matt


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Oct 15, 2012
Cleo's Needle

bearbreeder wrote:
i pay 85$ for my main ropes ... SLAM ! =P


Is this a who can pay the least for a rope competition? Cause I still got ya beat...but $150 for an Infinity is pretty swell and Mammut is very proud of their Duodess (which I think sucks).


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By bearbreeder
Oct 15, 2012

lol ... im waiting till they go on special like last year to get a 50$ one ;)

the point simply being that most people dont need duodess for most of the thing they do ... unless you know the rope i dont trust them anyways =P


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By mattm
From TX
Oct 15, 2012
Grande Grotto

Beal Rope Marker (more like a viscous ink than a plain old marker)
Sharpie T.E.C. or Rub-A-Dub

You need a BiColor who's two patterns are VERY different. Some colors just don't work well and it's damn hard to see the middle.

I'm with Bearbreader. Cheaper single color ropes and Beal Rope marker are what I use at the moment. I'll splurge on a BiColor if the pattern is distinct.


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By PiotrB
From Valencia, Spain
Oct 15, 2012
That's me focusing on something important ;) You can see my sponsor logo <a href='http://ternua.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >ternua.com</a>

Lately when I wasn't sure if my rope is long enough I just marked it with a simple node just before climbing :)
For those who don't need the middle mark so often.


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2012
Bocan

mattm wrote:
You need a BiColor who's two patterns are VERY different. Some colors just don't work well and it's damn hard to see the middle. I'm with Bearbreader. Cheaper single color ropes and Beal Rope marker are what I use at the moment. I'll splurge on a BiColor if the pattern is distinct.


It seems like most of them aren't that different. My yellow bicolor is the same shade of yellow even though the pattern is differnt, my buddies bright orange is the same. I think it's somewhat harder to see at times.


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By waltereo
Oct 19, 2012

John Wilder wrote:
bi-color ropes- worth every penny.


Totally useless,
Kepp you money for a road trip !


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By Carl H.
Oct 19, 2012
Belaying at Great Red Book

Seriously, though I did enjoy the funny ones, dental floss is great because you can remove and move it if you have to cut one end of your rope. I have done it several times using waxed dental floss and using a large sewing needle to weave it in and out of the sheath around and around for a couple inches. It will get worn and frayed but the white continues to show against darker ropes and if you have to cut your rope you can just pull out the dental floss and re-mark the new middle.


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By Kevin Mokracek
From Burbank
Oct 19, 2012
whitney east buttress

SHARPEE and be done with it.


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By Rick Blair
From Denver
Oct 19, 2012
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!

Run a cigarette lighter or propane torch over the middle area to singe the sheath... just a little. The off color sheath will allow you to find the middle by sight and the melted nylon weave will allow you to locate it by feel. You have to be very careful though or you might weaken the rope.

The sharp fiber whipping with floss or corrosive sharpie ink could be very dangerous and bi-patterns can make you nauseous.


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By Rick Blair
From Denver
Oct 19, 2012
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!

Don't melt your rope sheath.... unless you are doing a really long rap with a hot belay device.


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By patto
Oct 21, 2012

Ray Pinpillage wrote:
I have a Mammut Duodess Infinity and the bi-pattern is worthless, especially in low light. I marked the center with a Sharpie Rub-A-Dub. Maybe if a company makes a rope that is two completely different colors I'll change my mind but I won't buy another bi-pattern rope.


You obviously bought the wrong rope. I own a yellow Sterling Biathalon. The pattern change is so obvious it looks like two different ropes.

There are numerous other advantages of bipattern over a middle marker that help in rope management. I will never buy another trad rope that isn't bipattern.

Some bicolour though is hilariour. A friend bough a rope from the czech company making "Tendon" ropes which had one thread change of red an green to just green. (Pity, I'm red-green colour blind!)


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