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 ADVANCED
River Road Dihedrals
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BBQ Brush T 
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Root Canal T,S 
Unknown 5.9 T 

Root Canal 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Skyler Penrod, Paul Bucher
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 2,583
Submitted By: paul bucher on May 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: First Ascent of Root Canal

Description 

Obvious chimney on Molar Tower left of the main Dihedral Routes. Great route with classic photo opportunities. Face opposite bolts and sub summit is still a little crumbly, but will clean up with future ascents. Can be done in one pitch, but recommend two pitches belaying from stance on sub summit. Crux move is a lunge from sub summit to the main summit. 5.8 crux can go as an A0 move or escape from sub summit anchor if needed. Please leave all fixed hardware. This is a great route for anyone wanting to start learning chimney technique and is well protected.

Location 

Obvious Chimney. Route is facing the river. Anchor on top.

Protection 

5 Bolts, 2 Slung Huecos
7 Quick Draws


Photos of Root Canal Slideshow Add Photo
Sunset
Sunset
Anchor shown and slung hueco on "Root Canal"
Anchor shown and slung hueco on "Root Canal"
Hammering
Hammering
Paul
Paul
Working the First Ascent
Working the First Ascent
The name plate for "Root Canal", still in 1 piece
The name plate for "Root Canal", still in 1 piece

Comments on Root Canal Add Comment
Show which comments
By jeff bryan
From: Cortez, co
Nov 14, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Hey guys great route! climbed it today. It was a challenge for lacy 17. It was her 6th time climbing. She made it. thanks for putting this classic mod up. Its a gem!
By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Dec 15, 2010

Pretty fun route, nice work guys.
By Skylar Smith
Apr 13, 2012

This was probably the funnest 5.8 I've ever done. On top of this short tower is a box with a buddha next to it.
By Taylor S.
May 17, 2012

Super fun, cruiser chimney. Perfect for those new to chimneys and towers, or those just looking for some fun. Added to a short drive from town with a speedy approach and beautiful views means there are no excuses to not climb Root Canal. Good work, guys!
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 22, 2012

I firmly believe that safely bolting sick moderates like this is a huge service to the climbing community. Good on ya, and nice find! This would be the ideal first lead - short, fully bolted, ridiculously secure clips, and clean falls.

This would be nicely shaded and great on a hot day, but probably uncomfortably chilly in <50 weather.
By JohnEdsonStagg
From: Evergreen, CO
Feb 18, 2013

Does anyone know if the anchors have been replaced at the top of the Root canal. Lat time I climbed it, there were 2 slings and no chains.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Feb 19, 2013

it's on our to do list. we hope to up grade as soon as it gets warmer. as is, the anchors are still bomber. if you like molar, may i suggest terma or spear of destiny. both have super bomb new chain anchors. peace to all.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Feb 26, 2013

new anchors, DONE!!!! as of 2/25/13. probably now has the best anchors in the desert, maybe the planet and possibly the universe. a brontosaurus could rap off of these things.
By JohnEdsonStagg
From: Evergreen, CO
Oct 9, 2013

Paul,

Thanks for the anchor replacement. We're going back out for the Thanksgiving Holiday and this is on our Tick list. I love this route!