P1: Begin near the very large tree at the left side of the base of Crescent Wall just right of a large stack of blocks. Climb the first 100 ft. of "Cleft Palate" (7) via some broken ramps and a few slab moves up and left up to the base of the right-facing dihedral on the far left side of the wall that is below the "Cleft Palate" roof traverse (10b/c R, 11a). Climb half way up the dihedral, then make a move out left (9?) and belay.
P2: Unsure of where the bolts are located?
Offsets and smaller cams won't hurt, but the standard rack will see you through.
From: Dysfunctional, CO
May 18, 2009
This is the first route at Lumpy Ridge where Rossiter's 1996 description and topo did not seem to make sense. He gave this route a "star", but I give it the "finger".
We climbed P1 but could not locate the 2 bolts that were suppose to be there for P2. We saw a bolt 20 ft. to our left for "Milk Run (7 vs)", and a bolt 25 ft. up and to our right, which we assume is for "Hair Lip" (11c).
Maybe we were just blind, but I was not stoked to get up there expecting 5.9 bolt moves only to have these 3 options: Bail, gun a 10b/c R move that continues to 11a on " Cleft Palate", or go to a bolt that is likely on the P2 crux of "Hairlip (11c)".
We opted for a 5.7 R traverse (~20 ft. swing w/ dihedral slam) down and left to the P1 belay for "Milk Run" at a dead tree (We slung a block and rapped).
Lastly, I found the rock to be a little dirty. Several holds had a flaky surface that was not inspiring. They were easily cleaned, but this route probably doesn't see much traffic. In other words, not recommended for 5.9 climbers at this juncture IMHO.
Maybe that bolt I saw 25 ft. up and right of the belay is for P2, but my partner and I didn't want to run it out only to discover we were wrong. The guidebook did not call for an "R" rating, so I'm stumped.
|By Aaron Martinuzzi|
Jun 18, 2009
Just an FYI - Gillett's guide gives this a 9+ R - that might explain the sand-baggy feel and apparent lack of bolts.