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Trad Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
Beginner's Slab T,TR 
Creepy Caterpillar S,TR 
Dirt Crack T,TR 
Donkey, The T,TR 
Fluffiest Bunny T,TR 
Fluffy Bunny T,TR 
Minor Traverse T 
Pretty Pony T,TR 
Roofy Business T,TR 

Roofy Business 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Matt Wilson on Jun 14, 2012

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Description 

From the CRAG-VT guide: Begin at right-facing blocky jugs directly below diagonal
crack ~ 15í off the deck. To right of Beginnerís Slab. Climb jugs to diagonal crack
leading to roof. Make awkward mantle under roof, being careful to protect the roof
moves via mini dihedral crack off left-facing corner of roof. Pull cool moves through roof
and follow diagonal incipient crack left, then face moves and horizontal cracks to twobolt
anchors. PG 13 protection: standard rack with small pieces.

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The crux will be a grade higher for the shorter climbers (5'5" and shorter), I think, as they will need to be a bit dynamic to reach the jugs to pull the roof.


Location 

Center of the wall. See the 8 foot high, 20 foot long hole in the middle of the cliff face? Climb a fairly straight line up through the middle of that.


Protection 

Standard rack with small pieces.



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By Nick H.
Jun 14, 2012

As a shorter climber, I had a hard time reaching the jug to get over the roof, so I moved over and climbed up the right side instead.