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Turkey Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acoplopse T 
Brush Turkey S 
Captain Hook S 
Chop, The T 
Consternation T,TR 
Double Trouble T 
Drumstick Direct T 
East Side Story T 
Easy Offwidth T 
Eclipse T 
For Turkeys Only T 
Gobble This T 
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack T 
I Turkey/ Resurrection T,S 
In Search of Unicorns T 
Inner Reaches T 
Jello Party T 
Johnny Lat S 
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) T 
Left Side of the Key T 
Live Fire T 
Make the Cut T 
Piece of Cake T 
Quiver and Quill T 
Rasmussen Crack T 
Roofus T 
Sidewinder T 
Spider Lady T 
Squeeze Chimney T 
Termination T 
Turkey in the Straw T 
Turkey Turd T 
Turkey's Delight T 
Whimsical Dreams T 
Wild Turkey T 
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) T 

Roofus 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 512
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Apr 12, 2010

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Description 

Three pitch route, on the right side of Turkey Tail. Doesn't get done much, which is a shame. The first pitch is good, and the second is excellent.

P1 (5.10-) Begin just right of the bolted scoop on Journey to Ixtlan. Follow a wide crack past two horizontals. This crack becomes slabbier and thinner. From atop the slab, move left across thin face holds, and up the corner to a hanging belay off two fixed wires. This spot is also the top of the second pitch (slab pitch) of "Journey to Ixtlan." It's best to extend the belay to well-below the fixed wires, or the crux of p2 will be super awkward. You'll want a single set to #4 or #5 on this pitch.

P2 (5.11d) - Past the fixed wires, a powerful sequence up into the tips corner (blue alien size) leads to excellent laybacking and stemming through the hanging dihedral. Undercling left out the roof, and belay off thin-hands gear. Watch rope beneath lip of roof.

P3 (5.7) - Head up left past a small tree, and up the obvious corner. Top-out by moving up and right to the summit.

Descent - Find a two-bolt rap anchor on the far East (climber's right) edge of the summit area, and rap to the East. Walk east on a large ledge and rappel again off a slung block anchor. One 60m rope is fine.

Location 

This is just right of Journey to Ixtlan , on the far right side of Turkey Tail. The crux dihedral on p2 is visible from the ground.

Protection 

Single set to #4 or #5 (big cams only needed on p1) but take a good selection of RPs and cams in the blue and green Alien size.


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By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Jun 4, 2010

I needed to work this a few times, and then watched my Buddy Dennis Strom on sight the thing in 1999. In 1996 I watched another friend take a fall on some tat that was left by the FA. Removed that thing attached to an "historic hex".