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Climb the first pitch of Tagger via the description on the page for that route. From the belay, climb up to the second (crux) roof of Tagger, but instead of climbing out left through that roof, belay low and go up and to the right, traversing out beneath the flakes and cracks through the roof. This is certainly a much longer roof, but it is traversed rather than climbed and is relatively easy. Some loose rock is present and is of the utmost concern, as climbers are almost certainly below you on the ground or on other climbs.
After passing the roof, climb directly up to the ledge and walk off as for Calypso.
A standard rack.
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 6, 2008
The first time I tried Tagger the roof was pouring water. I did this to escape. It's an OK escape, but I wouldn't recommend it.
From: Loveland, Colorado
Mar 25, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13
I've found this to be a fun climb and a useful alternative in a variety of situations, e.g., an alternate 2nd pitch for Tigger keeping one away from the crowds on Wind Ridge, a 2nd pitch for Calypso Direct, and an honorable exit in case the 2nd pitch of Tagger proves a bit much.
Climb about 2/3 the way up the dihedral on the 2nd pitch of Tagger. Set some protection. Downclimb a bit and then head up and right to the overhanging roof as you pick your way along the slab. (A fall here and it's into the dihedral.) On gaining the roof, #4 Friend is the perfect piece (long sling). One more 5.7 move going around the roof and then moderate climbing to the walkoff ledge.
|By Steve Levin|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 27, 2009
As a side note, during research for the Eldo guide I'm now finishing up, climbers have reported doing this variation as far back as 1970. It was the standard bailout for failure on the Tagger Roof; ascents starting as far back as late-1968 (right after Erickson freed the roof) probably occurred.