Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Duncan's Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apples S 
Bird Shit Avenue T,TR 
Broken Crack T,TR 
Cave Route T,TR 
Cheeseburger in Paradise S,TR 
Conglomerate Face TR 
Corner Climb T,TR 
Crackmard T 
Dihedral Route T,TR 
Face Route T,TR 
Liberty's Last Stand TR 
Lichen Roof TR 
Northern Unnamed T,TR 
Nose, The T 
Oranges S,TR 
Out of the Black S 
Purdy Dirty TR 
Roof Route T,TR 
South Corner T,TR 
South OW T 
Unnamed Corner T,TR 
Unnamed Overhang TR 
Unnamed Top Rope Section T,TR 
Wide Side, The T,TR 
Wishbone Crack T,TR 

Roof Route 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,513
Submitted By: Joe McManus on Jul 26, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Pullin' the Nose (Roof Route) at Duncan's.

Description 

Go up and over the major roof at Duncan's Ridge. The route is dead center in the middle of the Ridge between the 5.7 Corner and the 5.9 Dihedral route.

Protection 

Bring some long slings for the TR anchors and maybe a tri cam or two.

Eds. Per Jarrod Keller: this route now has a bolted anchor.

Per Ryan-Nelson: this has been retrobolted with 6 bolts.


Photos of Roof Route Slideshow Add Photo
Si climbin' the dihedral crack . . roof to the lef...
Si climbin' the dihedral crack . . roof to the lef...
Starting the roof.
Starting the roof.
Above the roof - 1980.
Above the roof - 1980.
Rob, a little off-route, around 1980.
Rob, a little off-route, around 1980.

Comments on Roof Route Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 11, 2015
By Stewart Berry
Sep 6, 2003

This is a pretty fun roof. There are some great holds on it, some are just a little hard to find. The bolts on this route are no longer there. Bring a good bit of webbing and you can use the anchors for the 5.7 ( the route to the left) to top rope it.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 1, 2004

Looks like the girl in the picture is in for a gnarly fall! Hope she made it.
By Timmy! Tormey
From: Fakeville, USA
Feb 3, 2005

There is a picture of a girl leading this route... this is not a very good route to lead unless you are confident of the moves. If you are confident of them, then rock on bro!!
By Umph!
Mar 6, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

5.10. . . what?
I'd give this 10c and a Very serious R.
Maybe a hold or two or three or four broke or something.
Would absolutely rec. TR before a lead.
Cool little climb.
For the area, the diverse climbing and the quality, I give 'er 3 stars. . . some may argue.
By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a great TR. The anchor at the top takes a couple of nuts and a #1 Camalot.
By Rob C
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A good roof problem 40 feet off the ground. The roof is not easily protected on lead, if at all. The beta photo of the gal shows where the last piece can go until you're standing above. It would be a nasty deck fall. Fun on TR. A four piece nut anchor was bomber.
By Robert Curry
From: Evans, Co
May 19, 2009

I checked out the roof and cracks opposing both sides .. roof was very scary and I took a lil drop when I tried. I'll be back soon.
By Ryan-Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 15, 2015

This is route now has bolts thanks to the NCCC.

6 bolts to chains.
By Erik Kowalczyk
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 11, 2015

Under the roof, there is something that resembles a bolt but looks like a glue-in paper clip. I avoided clipping this but soon realized it lead to a long run out with an R rated fall. I don't know if I should clip this. Has anyone climbed this route since the bolts were added?
By Dan1124
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 13, 2015

Erik - that's a recently added glue-in bolt. I've taken hangs on it and seen a number of people fall on it, so it's good to clip.
By Sam Sala
From: Fort Fun, CO
Jun 19, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Felt brutal for a 10. Maybe 10b/c??? Rapped in to look at it and decided to take a lap on TR before a lead try. Glad I did, and will have to work this one a bit more before I get on lead. A fall pulling over the roof would not be great even with the new bolts. The bulge just below the roof is weird as well...don't underestimate it.
By Davis Dailey
Jul 11, 2015

The glue-in on the roof is just what the doctor ordered! Clip from a nice stance. Reach up find the good holds. Couple of high feet to pull the roof to an awkward bulge. I found little opportunity for good pro directly above the roof but was able to plug a hand sized cam a little higher. Top roping first definitely not a bad idea, but this is an awful toprope set up! Lots of drag. I prefer to rap off this rather than get lowered by my belayer. Very fun climb with great pro where you need it.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!