Romancing the Stone
|2,015 page views|
BETA PHOTO: Romancing the Stone. Climb a steep face, work left...
The route starts on the northwest face of Witches Tower. Climb up to the first bolt on good holds. Good face moves on knobs and edges get you to the second bolt. A red Alien can be placed in between bolts here. Veer a little left and place gear to gain a ledge and the third bolt. Fire up past the third bolt using a hanging, weird block. Reach the arete and climb up past three more bolts to a two-bolt anchor. A purple Camalot can be place before reaching the anchor.
Mixed gear. Six bolts plus a small rack up to a two Camalot.
Bob on the airy arete near the top of the route, p...
Bruce climbing the steep face past the first bolt.
Bruce cranking the wild move past the hanging flak...
BETA PHOTO: Romancing the Stone as seen from the road.
|Comments on Romancing the Stone
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2005
A good route with varied moves and nice exposure. The layback past the hanging flake and the moves up the arete are fun and airy.
I placed a red Alien after the first bolt, a #1 Camalot (or #2 Camalot) after the second bolt, and a #.5 Camalot to protect the final move to the anchor.
Romancing the Stone and the neighboring route Tese are must-dos on your way up to Sherwood Forest.
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2008
The creepy and loose sounding rock on the middle of this route really took a lot away from this route. I'm sure it much more solid than it seemed, but I couldn't shake the feeling that I was going to pull a HUGE piece of rock off every other move.
I think it would be a really good route if you weren't a wuss like me and just cranked on everything.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2008
I did this one more 'directly' and did not step left to the Camalot placements, and as such hit some questionable rock. A good route overall though, but I was trying to figure out what was what, as maybe 50' up there were two diverging/converging lines available with bolts to the left/right of each other. Was a little confused on which was the intended line.
No less, it was a nice long pitch done to the top anchor and was enjoyable. Thanks for 'finishing' the route.
|By David Youkey|
Jun 26, 2008
A nice route, but it's not 5.9; 5.8 at the most, maybe 5.7. Maybe I'm biased because I've been climbing a lot in Eldo recently. The moves past the hanging flake are indeed cool, but be careful. As Jeremy implies, all things are temporary, and some of those flakes seem to be potentially more temporary than, well, other things. Climb lightly, and tell your belayer to stand off to the side.
|By Friso Schlottau|
Jul 21, 2008
I have to agree with Jeremy. This climb (while a lot of fun) has a lot of missiles hanging, waiting to release. I'm not normally a fan of altering routes, but it would be nice to see some of the more questionable items removed, simply as a safety matter.
Fun climbing, though
|By Chris Piekarski|
From: Louisville, CO
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.8+ PG13
The above comments about loose rock in 2008 are still very relevant today. I did the route a few hours ago and was quite surprised by all the loose rock. The bolts have a lot of run out (the possibly of a ground fall exists even after bolt 3 and 4), so I placed some protection and witnessed a huge flake expand with just a light tug on the cam.
Fun, but be careful both when on the rock and when belaying.
|By Matt Toensing|
Jul 8, 2011
This route isn't good at all. The looseness of the rock makes it kind of serious, so make sure your belayer wears a helmet for sure. I tried to avoid the loose sections as best as I could making it probably a bit harder, but if you just tromp around on the flakes, it is probably 5.8. Anyways, super crappy climb. Not recommended at all.
|By Clint Locks|
Jul 11, 2011
Matt - I'd have to disagree. I had a blast on it! Really fun, and pretty safe, especially if you place the supplementary gear. Sure, there's some loose rock, but that's all part of the outdoor experience, especially on crags facing that aspect. BTW--a helmet won't do a belayer much good if any of those aforementioned blocks go. Just sayin'. Have fun out there!
From: Boulder, Co
Jul 28, 2011
The climb to the right is much better without the loose blocks.
|By Jeff Chrisler|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 25, 2012
I'd agree with those posting about loose stuff, mainly large and some small flakes. Because of the comments, I was doing the hollow punch test, and there was a lot that didn't sound good at all. Unfortunately, this really takes a lot away from an otherwise fun warm-up route. I am sure that in the next few years if not sooner, this route will change drastically due to large blocks and flakes coming off. Be aware of what you are pulling and stepping on while on this route!
|By Matt Looby|
From: Royal Oak, MI
Jul 18, 2012
Great route. I found the route to be clean with no loose rock so get on it!
It's just fine without any gear if you are solid on the grade. Use a couple long slings to reduce rope drag.
Also, there are two 3rd bolts - not sure why. We clipped the left one.
Sep 18, 2012
Great climb, no need for gear but HOLY SHIT! Loose rock! Be very careful climbing this one. I pulled one baseball-sized piece with chalk on it and felt many a large flake move under body weight. Put your belay far right and wear a helmet!