|Altered States Gully
There is one distinct crux in the middle of the route, however getting to the first bolt could be considered the mental crux. To quote the Ruckmans guidebook "Hold your breath getting to the first bolt. This took a monumental effort to equip, with multiple falls occurring when the first ascentionists drilled bolt #4."
Climb the corner system that shares the start with Altered States "crack," then traverse right under a small roof. After reaching the start of a chickenhead system charge up to the high first bolt. Follow more bolts and hard friction, to some naturally protected climbing to a bolted belay.
small to medium cams, quickdraws, double length slings for the gear placed before the first bolt. Save some small to medium stuff for the last 25'.
|By Stevie Nacho|
Oct 12, 2009
Jeans are a great piece of gear for this route. If you recreate the falls committed by the first ascentionists like I did, do not wear modern, thin, and cute prana pants. I found this leads to cheek raspberries.
A brilliant and beautiful pitch that every slab addict should do.
From: SL UT
Apr 25, 2010
Gold camalot perfectly protects in a pod under the initial roof. The falls at the crux proper are totally safe and clean. A red #1 camalot can be snuck in the groove below the anchor. A good belay option exists on the ledge 20ft below the roof, right between Romance on the Rocks and A Bright Shining Lie...look for the fixed nut and add an orange tcu.