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 ADVANCED
Altered States Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Bright Shining Lie S 
Air Express T 
Altered States T 
Angel's Ladder T 
Betty's Altered Elbow T 
Betty's In 3D T 
Clutching at Straws T 
Del Tongo T 
Discrete Feat T 
Dropping Out T 
Eagle Roof T 
Latter Day Sinner T 
Magic Circus T 
March of the Gummi Bears T 
Proscenium T 
Rhino's Chin, The T 
Romance on the Rocks T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Slip Slidin' T 
Sticky Fingers T 
Stumpy T 
Thoroughflare T 

Romance on the Rocks 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Les Ellison and Dana Hauser 1980
Page Views: 1,131
Submitted By: Stevie Nacho on Oct 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking over at Les Ellison and Jim Mutscheller on...

Description 

There is one distinct crux in the middle of the route, however getting to the first bolt could be considered the mental crux. To quote the Ruckmans guidebook "Hold your breath getting to the first bolt. This took a monumental effort to equip, with multiple falls occurring when the first ascentionists drilled bolt #4."

Climb the corner system that shares the start with Altered States "crack," then traverse right under a small roof. After reaching the start of a chickenhead system charge up to the high first bolt. Follow more bolts and hard friction, to some naturally protected climbing to a bolted belay.

Protection 

small to medium cams, quickdraws, double length slings for the gear placed before the first bolt. Save some small to medium stuff for the last 25'.


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By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Oct 12, 2009

Jeans are a great piece of gear for this route. If you recreate the falls committed by the first ascentionists like I did, do not wear modern, thin, and cute prana pants. I found this leads to cheek raspberries.

A brilliant and beautiful pitch that every slab addict should do.

sn
By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 25, 2010

Gold camalot perfectly protects in a pod under the initial roof. The falls at the crux proper are totally safe and clean. A red #1 camalot can be snuck in the groove below the anchor. A good belay option exists on the ledge 20ft below the roof, right between Romance on the Rocks and A Bright Shining Lie...look for the fixed nut and add an orange tcu.