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Roman Holiday 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Montesanto
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,225
Submitted By: Steve Montesanto on Aug 2, 2013

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Mike Carville photo credit

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Description 

1st pitch mostly technical 5.10 punctuated with a couple of easy 5.11 moves along the way. Final move left of the last bolt puts you up and over a small right facing corner onto the base of the upper slab (start of 2nd pitch). 2nd pitch is a low angle romp and goes at around 5.10a with crux at around the 7th bolt. Last 30 feet climbs a fun, easy flake system to the top anchors.

Location 

Route goes up giant slab across from the 2 towers. Start just right of the small cave and slightly up the hill. 1 70m rope gets you down in 2 raps. 2 60m ropes get you down in 1 rap but has bad rope drag pulling ropes from bottom.

Protection 

1st pitch 10 bolts in 80 ft. 2nd pitch 13 bolts in 115 ft. Bolted anchors and Mussy hooks at top of 1st pitch. 6 glue ins at top of 2nd pitch (these are the anchors put in by the slack liners).


Photos of Roman Holiday Slideshow Add Photo
Lucas Price on 1st pitch.
Lucas Price on 1st pitch.
Bill and Angie Price on Roman Holiday .11a/b
Bill and Angie Price on Roman Holiday .11a/b

Comments on Roman Holiday Add Comment
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By jimi thornburg
Jan 26, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route has some fun climbing. Steve really worked hard to clean this route of any loose rock and it's a pleasure to pull on the holds and know they're going to stay. Great views from the belays on top of both pitches.
By Steve Montesanto
Feb 3, 2014

After some feedback from Jim and others regarding the bolt spacing on the second pitch I decided to add some bolts and lessen the risk of a long cheese grater fall on the slab. Was 8 bolts.....is now 13 bolts in 115 ft of climbing.
By mike carville
Feb 15, 2014

Thanks guys. Makes the upper slab enjoyable and safe.
By mike carville
Mar 28, 2014

loose block 1/2 way up?
By Steve Montesanto
Apr 5, 2014

Checked out the suspect rock today. Yeah, there's been some recent rock that's come off just below the 6th bolt that hollowed out the pillar the bolt was in. Long story short, I moved the bolt down a few feet off pillar and into some solid rock. Beware, you still have to climb the hollow pillar (I don't think it's going anywhere)!