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Great route with a couple of intermittent rests that are good enough to recover on, and a tricky sequence after the third bolt. This climb is short but sweet with well spaced bolts. Guaranteed to put a smile on anyone's face.
In between "Junkyard" and "The Big One" on the Sanford Wall. The Sanford wall is marked by a large tree growing right up against the right-most climb called "Grey Matter."
4 bolts to shuts
Rollo cranking the jugs just below the anchors.
RoLLO! Climber: Nick Evans
|By Chris Hannes|
Nov 26, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Good looking wall and route, bolting job not the best, second bolt could be lower, don't know if I'd climb this one again.
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 16, 2010
This route has 3 bolts instead of 4 as the description and the previous 2 guidebooks detail. The bolts are spaced at 15-ft intervals plus the anchors puts this route around 60-ft. This route is very thought provoking, but safe if you were to whip at the cruxes. My biggest complaint with the Watford guidebooks is the lack of route recommendations, but maybe my standards of good routes is much lower ever since I moved from NC to Chossorado! This route and the others should at least get 2 out 3 stars when you consider how popular and chalked up this wall is.
|By Bruce Madden|
Apr 5, 2010
The 2nd bolt is way too high; I've seen two groundfalls even from attentive belayers, with fortunately not much harm to the startled climber. I believe another bolt to prevent the potential grounding would make it safer.