Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Rollerball Formation
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bamboozler, The T 
Keep the Ball Rolling T 
Rollerball T 
Rollerbrah TR 
Rollercoaster S 

Rollerball 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jon Lonne & Dave Ohlsen, 1976
Page Views: 3,380
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Sara pulling the roof. My rope gun taking care of...

Description 

A start past some horizontals gets you to a ledge with a left-leaning thin crack which thins and dies, with the crux being a balancy lieback past a bolt. Higher, easier moves lead to a stance below an impressive roof which despite appearances from afar goes easily with a perfect hand crack splitting it.

Belay from gear (pro to 2.5") and walk off or use the anchors on the neighboring Rollercoaster and don't forget to set a directional piece for your follower.

A great route to do at least once every season, this route has a lot of fun moves packed into it's relatively short length. Four stars out of five.


Location 

Located on the northern end of the west face.


Protection 

bolt (3/8"), pro to 3.5"



Photos of Rollerball Slideshow Add Photo
Tony Bubb follows Joseffa Meir past the crack and onto the jugs and heal-hooks of Roller Ball (5.10) in the Outback of J-tree.  Photo by Erin Haas, 11/2010.
Tony Bubb follows Joseffa Meir past the crack and ...
Graham past the technical crux.  <br />"The roof isn't that hard, right?"
Graham past the technical crux.
"The roof isn't t...
Tony Bubb goes horizontal following Joseffa Meir on Roller Ball (5.10) in J-tree's Outback.  Photo by Erin Haas, 11/2010.
Tony Bubb goes horizontal following Joseffa Meir o...
Rollerball follows the left-leaning crack on the right to the obvious crack in the roof.
BETA PHOTO: Rollerball follows the left-leaning crack on the r...
The actual crux of Rollerball is arm and leg-length dependent. Tony Bubb stems and reaches up on second. Photo by Erin Haas, 11/2010.
The actual crux of Rollerball is arm and leg-lengt...
Comments on Rollerball Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 28, 2013
By Josh Beck
Nov 5, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Indeed a great route. Maybe I was having a bad day but for me this route was harder than Clean and Jerk - perhaps comparable to Bearded Cabbage in overall difficulty?

By Mike Hack
Nov 8, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Great climb, although short, with two fun cruxes. For me the technical crux (layback/weight shift near the bolt) was not as hard as the roof crux. This to me felt harder than the roof on Illusion Dweller. Just not very secure for my fat hands. I didn't think this route was as hard or as pumpy as C&J, though.

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 6, 2005

The route was perfect in all ways. I used two large cams under the roof to portect it. Did a sling v thing directional with a magic x. There is a definite sequence of hands. Oh! the little flake that protrude out from the line will catch the rope, watch it! I found this route much easier than Clean and Jerk. The quiet at Roller Ball is quite good place to concentrate, unlike Clean and Jerk.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 27, 2006
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Whoever placed the bolt on this is either way tall, or a moron (or both..or placed it on rappel without checking the clip stance). You have to commit to the technical liebacking crux before reaching the bolt, which you could have clipped from a secure stem rest stance if it were placed 12" down and to the right. There's a chain anchor on top well positioned for this and Rollercoaster. The climbing is great, roof is fun hands/thin hands, go do it.

By Murf
Nov 27, 2006

The bolt replaced a pin in the seam. It is as close to the original placement as possible. The chain anchor is actually poorly placed for Rollerball.

By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 27, 2006

I'm the one who replaced the pin with a bolt. Like Tom says - "It is as close to the original placement as possible" - otherwise the character of the climb would be altered. Glad you enjoyed the route.

The anchor on Rollercoaster was never intended for Rollerball but works fine for that purpose provided a directional is used (see route description).

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 28, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

you can totally clip the bolt before committing to the crux- just work it out.

that said, thanks for the bolt- it made committing to that crux alot easier.

finally- that roof is the most fun you'll ever have on a 5.10 roof!

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 5, 2008

Bolt placement is high but explaination accepted. I did have to make a few moves to touch it but not too difficult. Crack below can be protected with small TCU's or brassies.

Man, that's a lot of beta for a girl who just cleaned it. Next time...she's mine!

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 14, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

One of my favorite Josh 10s. Thanks for the bolt explanation- the location has left me scratching my head several times. A BD #7 stopper fits in the flare in the crack OK and makes the moves to clipping the bolt psychologically more acceptable. Fly up the roof and feel like superman!

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jan 26, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Kind of an overrated climb both grade and quality wise, and a bit of a letdown considering the hype it gets here.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 27, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

We thought it to be a pretty fun route, with clean rock. 3 stars out of 5

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

Technical face-like climbing past the crux (and bolt) that is height dependent. The roof up top is a total blast and is probably 5.9- on great jams and the chicken heads to the right.
I'd have given it 4 stars, but the stretches of really good climbing are too short to be a real classic.

By AST
Nov 28, 2013

Tricky height dependent crux down low. A 6 foot person can pretty easily clip the bolt from a stemming stance. Anyone 5'9" and under may as well just do the crux and clip it after grabbing the exit jug, IMO.

The roof is great fun.