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Redgarden - Tower One
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Ytrid Deed, The T 

Roll Over Rover 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Candelaria
Fixed Hardware: 3 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 618
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Apr 29, 2002

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  • Description 

    On the piller between the big dihedral second pitch of Rover and the OW second pitch of Ruper, locate 3 bolts on the left side of the face right of the arete. This route was originally rated 12a/b, the newest guide book notes 11d, but for some reason its not that hard. Good position and fun moves, but poorly placed bolts is how I would describe this rig. I thought the crux was clipping the last bolt (if you are well under 6' then even more so). Regaurdless, a great link-up into the Rover crux pitch above.

    Protection 

    sm/med wire, sm/med cam 3 QD's


    Comments on Roll Over Rover Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 3, 2002

    See "Roving for Love" for more ideas.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 8, 2002

    A good pitch. Of the three bolts, the only easily clippable one is the first. The second bolt is about four feet away from a perfect stance, but once clipped you'll have overhead pro for most of what I thought was the crux. The third bolt is clipped mid-move making the last hard section a little harder than necessary. It would be nice to have the bolts placed more logically (and to have modern bolts). Also, a med/lg stopper will safely get you to the first bolt. It was definitely way overrated at .12a and .11d. It seems like .11b/c even with the bolts being hard to clip.
    By Joe Collins
    Jul 15, 2004
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    11b/c climbing, but making the 3rd clip feels like 11+.
    By Scott Bennett
    Jan 19, 2009
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    I really enjoyed this route, it was nice to find a fun, well-protected, hard route in a cool position.
    As for the bolt positioning, clipping the second and third was difficult, but both had good stances right below them and I found it easy to downclimb back to the stances after clipping for quick rests. Overall, I didn't think the bolt positions made the route any harder.

    The second and third bolt looked like they've been recently replaced (thanks!), and the first, although old, still looks a lot better than some of the museum pieces in Eldo.