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Smears for Fears Area
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Lebanese JoJo T 
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Rojo T 
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Rojo 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten, Sal Mamusia
Season: Spring / Fall
Page Views: 655
Submitted By: Jonathan Groppenbacher on Nov 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

20 ft to the right of Smears For Fears start in some featured rock below a shallow right facing dihedral. Gain the bolted face above that.

Protection 

WC Zeros - 1.75 and a handful of extendable draws


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By megaposer
May 8, 2009

This route has had bolts added subsequent to the first ascent. Rojo was established ground up with a hand drill from stances. Trad ethics RIP.
By Cunning Linguist
Jun 11, 2011

All three pro bolts on this one looked original to me. Whatever extra bolts may have been added at some point are long gone now. Impressive route, wish there were more like this one in the canyons.
By Josh Janes
Oct 22, 2013

3 bolts total and as Handren puts it in his guide, still "hair raising". Clearly bolted on lead - I don't think this has been retro'd, but Paul, you would know.
By Harrison Teuber
From: Black Hills, SD
Apr 1, 2015

unfortunately there's a bolt in the dihedral. bomber gear below and above it. The last 2 bolts are pretty necessary. Better than Smears, IMO.
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