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Routes in Winter Wall
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Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bosch Hogg S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Highly Caffeinated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Original Face Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Protein Supplement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vitaman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Xibalba S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 104 ft (32 m) |
| FA: | Mark Thomas |
| Page Views: | 2,527 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Oct 23, 2007 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
Roid Boys has really easy climbing interrupted by 3 short steep sections moving through blocky overhangs. Finding the good exit holds and having enough core and upper body strength to pull through these cruxes is key. The 2nd roof is probably the crux, you move from left to right.
This climb has an unusual character for an easier Diablo sport climb, with short powerful cruxes and almost none of the endurance factor that characterizes other Diablo moderates.
I think the FA deserves good credit for intelligent bolt placements on this route. With these short boulder problem cruxes, falls onto ledges or slabs would've been possible, but the bolts are in perfect locations, so this is not an issue.
Rap the route with one 60m rope (and PAY ATTENTION TO THE END OF IT- it may just barely reach or might come up just a couple meters short of the ground, depending on rope stretch; DON'T GET DROPPED!)
This climb has an unusual character for an easier Diablo sport climb, with short powerful cruxes and almost none of the endurance factor that characterizes other Diablo moderates.
I think the FA deserves good credit for intelligent bolt placements on this route. With these short boulder problem cruxes, falls onto ledges or slabs would've been possible, but the bolts are in perfect locations, so this is not an issue.
Rap the route with one 60m rope (and PAY ATTENTION TO THE END OF IT- it may just barely reach or might come up just a couple meters short of the ground, depending on rope stretch; DON'T GET DROPPED!)
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