Roger's Roof 

Thanks for the info Tony. I'll add Roger's name to the FA.

first lead by roger weigand and paul stettner jr. 1962

To lead RR take #5 stopper, behind flake part way up arete, but B4 fixed LA, then 2 x .75 Camalot or 1.5 tricam at roof whatever works. Equalize these if you want. Then #2 Camalot then #3 Camalot, both above roof, run to top. Totally casual, anchor at trees or with small tri-cams and a brassy in cracks at top. Great lead

Chest

Oh yeah,

Tape up, as the Jam above the roof hurts. I realize this is not a characteristically chest comment, but trust me...

Chest

Shit Chest, you ruined my onsight!

Sorry Jay,

I didn't mean to, but I thought you told me at Conway's one night (after several pitchers of Optimator) that you have already led it while naked (hands untaped too) and blindfolded. I think you were even talking about a nude solo w/ a photo shoot so you could get the best two "Cracks" at the lake in Climbing Mag next time they do an article on the Lake.

No offense, Jay. That's scary!

:):):):):)

I happened to be in Madison for a math meeting last weekend and ventured up to Devils Lake with a few other old geezers (Pete Cleveland, Olle & Sue Swartling, Al Czecholinski, Dave Erickson, John Rowe), as well as a youngster (Alex) who could climb hard stuff effortlessly. I thought it would be neat to lead the roof 40 years after the first ascent. It went fine, though I was a bit slow figuring out where to place gear on the thin stuff below the roof. The roof was still pretty hard for a guy who has never done a chinup, but three tries (no falls) sufficed. I am sitting in my office now looking fondly at the nascent scab on the back of my left hand. Incidentally, on the first ascent Paul Stettner Jr. led the thin part up to the roof and then lowered off from a home-made RURP placed above the roof. I had a bong on my rack and was therefore able to lead the roof safely. Paul certainly led the scariest part.

Wow....Thanks for the post Roger!

I'm curious about the 'place palm at the top of the crack' and bleed beta? I climbed this last month and used a fist jam lower down in the crack to surmount the roof. Also possible, though a little harder, to layback over the roof using foot holds off to the right.

The stick your hand in crack & bleed beta is not true unless your jams slip – then it might be possible to tear some skin – depends on slippage. The roof has a perfect ring lock that will allow you to reach a little higher for that perfect hand jam and then reach for the second perfect hand jam, put toe in crack (easier than using the face me-thinks) and surmount the roof, cruiser to the top. Fun, great lead!

What I remember from this climb is the bone in my left hand hurt for 2 weeks afterwards. No bleeding though. Key seemed to be to get your right foot out on the rock face just above the lip of the roof. Once you stand up it's just a real pretty jam crack to the top.

This climb is a great lead. The pro up to the roof probably would not hold a fall. When you get to the roof, the pro is bomber.

My buddy Chris climbed this for his second climb ever. He did great on it. Falling the first time, but on the second try he got it. After that we all decided to climb the horse in bare feet. Chris liked that so much that he wanted to try Roger's again in bare feet. He sent it no problem. He said it felt better than in his shoes.

According to the 1970 guidebook, this route was briefly known as "Butchery."

Crappy gear below the roof minus the fixed pin. A nut in the horizontal down low with a long sling helps calm your mental edge. A single .75 BD cam held up greatly on the 2 giant whips I took getting over the roof. This is one of my fondest leads thus far. Beautiful jams- just go get after it on this one! Also, the climb maintains interest after the crux which is uncharacteristic for a lot of DL climbs.

Ow, my fuckin' arm hurts after that bullshit. Really good climb in a bad way.

Wow Rhoads first time on this climb!?

It doesn't hurt that bad you baby!

I think I backed down off the roof 4 or 5 times before just accepting the pain and pulling over.

I've done things before breakfast that would kill you Paul.

Ah that jam is painful! Super fun though. Everyone should try this climb and get sandbagged.

Didn't really think it was painful, but then again, it was 90 degrees today. So it was probably too greasy for good jams. Either way, I skipped the awful feet out left by just compressing and getting a foot on the crack above the roof. Fun lead. Protected well.

Another bloody wicked route on DL quartzite. Pro' is pretty thin on lower rib section. The jam leaves a nice dent in the back of your left hand for the rest of the day, unless you slip and rip it open for some classic blood smears.

I dont really remember it being painful but i do remember it being slimy... Gear at the bottom was so so but once you hit the roof you can almost build an anchor in the crack under the roof.