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The Streaked Wall
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Rodeo Queen 
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Rodeo Queen 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A4

   
Type:  Aid, 15 pitches, 1200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A4 [details]
FA: Conrad Anker and Mugs Stump
Page Views: 1,573
Submitted By: Nate Brown on Jan 7, 2010

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Description 

Technically may be the hardest route on the wall. Severly committing, hard direct start, big runouts... Whilst climbing Good Friday the 13th, one could potentially rip the whole pitch! Woah! To top it all off, after having fried your brain, you have to do some mandatory 5.9 climbing at the top of the wall!


Location 

Left most of the leaning routes


Protection 

As per original Mugs topo "come armed for bear"



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By Go Hamada
Mar 24, 2011

Taniguchi Ryuji aka Tony and Go Hamada of Japan climbed this route in '94 March. Natural line, hard thin crack and a great route. Very GD western.

By Nate Brown
From: Wilson, Wy
Jul 15, 2011

Go Hamada,

We had heard of this ascent when we were researching it. This route was way scary.

By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 6, 2013

Climbed this with Jeff Achey in November 1999 in a very leisurely 5 days car-to-car. Think it was the 4th ascent (Pennings & Hollenbaugh did the 3rd). We had a pair of ravens hang with us the entire time. The only dangerous pitch was the last one because it was really soft and the wall went to less-than-vertical and you could hit something if you fell- every other pitch (except maybe off Rubicon) you could rip and just fall into space. Topped out on Jeff's birthday to the last of our red wine. Good times. Next day John Varco met us at the base of the descent with two cold beers.