|1,303 page views|
Technically may be the hardest route on the wall. Severly committing, hard direct start, big runouts... Whilst climbing Good Friday the 13th, one could potentially rip the whole pitch! Woah! To top it all off, after having fried your brain, you have to do some mandatory 5.9 climbing at the top of the wall!
Left most of the leaning routes
As per original Mugs topo "come armed for bear"
|By Go Hamada|
Mar 24, 2011
Taniguchi Ryuji aka Tony and Go Hamada of Japan climbed this route in '94 March. Natural line, hard thin crack and a great route. Very GD western.
|By Nate Brown|
From: Wilson, Wy
Jul 15, 2011
We had heard of this ascent when we were researching it. This route was way scary.
|By Steve Levin|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 6, 2013
Climbed this with Jeff Achey in November 1999 in a very leisurely 5 days car-to-car. Think it was the 4th ascent (Pennings & Hollenbaugh did the 3rd). We had a pair of ravens hang with us the entire time. The only dangerous pitch was the last one because it was really soft and the wall went to less-than-vertical and you could hit something if you fell- every other pitch (except maybe off Rubicon) you could rip and just fall into space. Topped out on Jeff's birthday to the last of our red wine. Good times. Next day John Varco met us at the base of the descent with two cold beers.