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Burning Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broken Sling T 
Burning Calves T 
Chorus Line T 
Grace Note S 
Happy Hands T 
Rod Serling Crack T 
Ruchert Motion S 
Spiderwand T 
Sportster, The S 
Steve Martin's Face T 
Stuck in Another Direction T,TR 
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam T 
Will To Power, The T 

Rod Serling Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Okel, Tom Howard
Page Views: 1,750
Submitted By: Jake Jones on Mar 23, 2008

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Description 

Start in a left-facing dihedral in an alcove. The dihedral butts into a roof, smear and stem to get to the lip, still following the now horizontal dihedral, then pull the roof and follow the mainly finger-sized crack to the anchors. This is one of the many high quality 5.10 gear lines of Beauty Mountain. On par with Burning Calves, and Wham Bam. This route is prone to getting the rope stuck after pulling the roof. Just drop a large stopper at the lip of the roof, and don't clip it. This keeps the rope out of the crack pretty well.

Location 

Upstream and around the corner (to climber's right) from Burning Calves. You'll turn the corner and walk slightly downhill- it's hard to miss. A pretty distinct route.

Protection 

Nuts, finger and hand-sized cams up to 2". Bolted anchor.


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