On the right side of Burning Buttress, starts in a left facing dihedral.
|By Sam Stephens|
Jun 30, 2010
Good luck keeping the rope out of the crack as you pull the roof. If you're ballsy enough to not place any pro until after the roof you'll be fine. Great climbing, but not what you'd expect when you first look at it.
|By P. Sully|
Jan 24, 2012
classic route, tough lead for the grade. crazy stemming under the roof.
I always used to rope up w/ doubles for this one and drop one rope after pulling the roof and putting in a bomber anchor to avoid the heinous rope drag.
|By Ed Wade|
From: Hermann, MO
Aug 19, 2012
After placing pro at the lip, backclean as far as you can and hopefully you used long slings on the gear lower down. This should keep the rope running smooth. This route is one of the best at the New.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Sep 17, 2012
Just to add to the conversation about the rope getting stuck at the lip: I always just drop a large stopper (can't remember what size) at the lip of the roof, and don't clip it. This keeps the rope out of the crack pretty well.