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Taboo Area
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A Handful of Harpies S 
Cavorting S 
Forbidden Fruit S 
Magic Mushroom S 
Momentum S 
Original Sin S 
Rocky S 
Seduction S 
Sins of the Flesh S 
Taboo T 
Violator S 

Rocky 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Grahm Doe, 2003
Page Views: 350
Submitted By: C Miller on Apr 2, 2008

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Balancy moves lead into a shallow right-facing corner and the start of the drill flute where interesting movement gains a small ledge below the crux at the 5th bolt. The reachy and somewhat bouldery crux is out of character with the rest of the climb as you continue up the drill flute with steep and sustained climbing along flakes, edges and jugs all the way to the anchors.

Since this route is over 100' long it's common to L-P-L to get down - lower down to the midpoint anchors, pull your rope, and then lower again to the ground.

Location 

Located at the far right side of the Taboo Area and visible as the right of two drill flute marks which identify this portion of the wall. This climb is also just down and left from Shwazzle Dazzle (5.11c) which is the furthest left route in The Alcove.

Protection 

17 bolts, ring anchors


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