|129 page views|
A very steep exciting multi-pitch up solid clean granite, aid is strongly recommended with ladders and hooks, to free the whole route would be downright impressive. This route was super fun for me and it also scared the hell out of me at least once on every pitch. Some of the higher pitches have really nice exposure.
Pitch 1: 5.9+ A1, aid up a hand crack up into an obvious dihedral, take the dihedral up to a random ledge. When the rope is too tight make anchor.
Pitch 2: 5.8, climb the dihedral. Avoid touching the death blocks on the pitch. Follow this dihedral until you get to a knee-bar crack that goes for 10 feet. This part was really scary for me because I had no big cams so I had to free solo the overhanging crack. Make an anchor on top of the pinnacle, which is a good belay stance and an obvious landmark.
Pitch 3: 5.9+ A1+. There are two cracks parallel to each other. Climb the left one to the logical end of the dihedral. Pop your head up and look left for an undercling type flake on the head wall slab to your left. This is the scary part. Aid your way out left under a flake and use the crack to aid to the top. You will probably want another belay somewhere in the high crack
On the crack dome. Look at the picture for the route location.
Two set cams, two aid ladders, one cliff hanger hook, multiple slings, jumar, 60m rope
Showing about the middle of the route
First 5.10 pitch