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Red Springs Rock
Routes Sorted
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Allied Forces T 
Attack Dogs S 
Badger's Buttress T 
Bikini Gold T 
Classic Corner T 
Eggs Over Sleazy S 
Mavericks S 
Ripcurl T 
Rocky Road T 
Welcome to N.I.M.B.Y. (Not In My Back Yard) Town S 
Unsorted Routes:

Rocky Road 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Old School
Season: All
Page Views: 461
Submitted By: Andy Hansen on Jan 8, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Tony Brengosz leading Rocky Road. Jan 2012

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Description 

Rocky Road is a tough little OW. If you're a fledgling OW leader this would be a good candidate to break into the grade. The crux is, obviously, well protected and short lived. However, the remainder of the climb will prove to be a challenge if this is your first foray into the wonderful world of offwidth.

There are two ways to start the climb: one way would be to start directly below Allied Forces and follow a finger to hand crack and pull the bulge using face holds and fire into the meat of Rocky Road. The other option would be to start about 15 to the right of Allied Forces and climb up easy (5.7) terrain into a 3" crack up to the bulging corner/crack. The obvious bulge is what you're looking at getting into. From there fire straight up the left-facing offwidth corner for 100 feet of grueling fun.


Location 

To the right of Allied Forces in the obvious low angled left-facing corner.


Protection 

Single Cams 4"-7"



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By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route is an unsung classic! Close to the road and wonderful climbing. The only detractor from it is the fact that the fists crux is a bit sandy...but that really isn't so bad. This thing looks deceptively easy from the ground...not so fast my friends! Great climb.

Would recommend singles 2-6" and small gear for the anchor at the top. Double it up if you aren't comfortable bumping gear or running it out a little.

Also, all of the guidebooks give this thing a .10, deservedly so...perhaps the page should reflect this?