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Redgarden - Tower One
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Rocky Raccoon 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Teena Wells and Ron Akin, 1981
Page Views: 789
Submitted By: George Bell on Oct 25, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Lotus Steele and Dan Hare on the second pitch.

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  • Description 

    This is an odd route where the first 40' are a tree! Climbing this route is hard on the tree, and I hope it remains obscure. The route would be much harder without the tree, as it spans a sizable overhang.

    It begins only 30' right of the start of the Yellow Spur. Climb a large tree to the lip of an overhang (slings around branches if you want pro). The top of this tree has been beaten down by the traffic and the move getting onto the rock has been getting harder (I'm 6'0", and I'd rate it 5.9 or even harder if you are much shorter). Fortunately, you can place some decent pro in the rock before stepping off the tree (hands just above the overhang). Do not attempt this climb if it is windy.

    After the difficult moves over the overhang, head up and left to belay at a tree. The second pitch (nice) follows the same crack system for 50' to a ledge, then continue up parallel cracks (5.9) to a belay. The third pitch climbs a rotten and somewhat unprotected face over a bulge (you can get in more than the #0 RP mentioned by Rossiter), then traverse right to the Upper Ramp.

    If you still haven't gotten your fill of tree hugging, head on up E.L.100.


    Protection 

    Standard Eldo rack.



    Photos of Rocky Raccoon Slideshow Add Photo
    Dan Hare starting up the tree.
    Dan Hare starting up the tree.
    Dan Hare nearing the top of the tree.
    Dan Hare nearing the top of the tree.
    Leaving the tree...  (if that's YOU, PM me for more photos).
    Leaving the tree... (if that's YOU, PM me for mor...
    Comments on Rocky Raccoon Add Comment
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    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Jul 17, 2008
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

    Looks like the 2 topmost branches of the tree were recently broken off. The transition onto the face is now much harder (and not fun, just awkward). There are much better climbs in the area to do, in my opinion.