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Rocky Mountain Alpinists!

Original Post
Michael Sammartino · · Eagle, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

Hey everyone,

I'm just started to train for some serious alpine/ mountaineer trips next year and am looking for other more experienced alpinists to climb/ train with over the course of the next 6 months. So far, I'm planning a to spend a couple months in the alps next season climbing the Mont Blanc massif, the Dolomites, and working towards an of the While I have some alpine climbing experience, I'm looking to up my skills in terms of technical alpine climbing/ light and fast mountaineering. As far as technical climbing skill goes, I lead up to .12a and can follow up to .12b/c; as a bouldered, I'm comfy right around the V5-6 range and am pushing V7-V8.

If there's anyone looking for a partner to do a bunch of climbing in RMNP, Indian Peaks this coming season, let me know! I'm in the process of outfitting an alpine rack and would love to climb with someone much more experienced that's looking to pass on their knowledge to a relatively newer climber!

-Mike

Ben Sebald · · Rochester, MN · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 1,516

Well I may not be the super experienced old alpine mentor you have been looking for, but I am a professional mountain guide and am always looking for opportunities to get some alpine climbing in. It is getting to be the end of the season here in CO, but a few more assents are definitely possible. I am also open to some winter assents if you are up for bearing the cold. I am in Colorado Springs which isn't so close to RMNP or Indian peaks, but let me know if you are still looking to pull off some assents some time, and maybe we could workout schedules, eh?
Climb on climber!

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Hi Michael and Ben. I'll toss my name into the pot as well. I think we can eke out one or two more climbs up high this season before everything really gets covered in snow. I just did the Petit Grepon a couple weeks ago and thought that would be the last alpine trip, but all this sunshine means we might get one more.

I lead up to 12a/b on bolts, 11a/b on gear and WI5 when it gets cold enough :)

I'm no hardcore alpinist but I've ticked my fair share of objectives and spent just under a month in Chamonix. Managed to stay alive thus far so I guess I'm doing something right. Want to get out next week?

Ben Sebald · · Rochester, MN · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 1,516

I would totally be up for some alpine next week! If you have any routes you really have your eye on speak up. I have not done the Crestones, and would love to. I also would be interested in Vestal center shift because it as such an aesthetic. Both those options are in the 5.7 - 5.8 range which is easy ,of course, but they both interest me. Though with Vestal I would like at least 4 days to travel down, hike out, and have two days of attempts in case let the weather throw a curve ball.

Ryan Marsters · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 1,431

Just a heads up, but Vestal N face routes and basins are covered in about 0-7 IN of unconsolidated snow at the moment. S descent routes are a bit patchy but mostly dry.

Not impossible to climb, but really not fun what with the snow consistency. Doubtful those aspects will melt out or consolidate prior to heavy snows.

S facing routes are probably pretty good in the area for at least a few days. Ruby Basin area.

I'd like to throw my hat in for alpine partners with quite a bit of mountain experience, but I can hardly follow what you gents can lead.

Ben Sebald · · Rochester, MN · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 1,516

Yeah, it is getting close to southface season everywhere.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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