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Rocky Face Recreational Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ain't this a Mess T 
Air Mantle T 
Ben's Done Been (AKA Bat Flake) S,TR 
Between the 4s TR 
Black Flies S 
Black Hole S 
Blasted in Black S 
Bob Left TR 
Bob Right S,TR 
Bob's Gone Batty S 
Bullet Holes TR 
Bullistics S 
Crimps and Slopers S 
Double Roof Ballet S 
Far Left Corner TR 
Flight Time S 
Gateway  TR 
General Lee, The S 
Hang Time TR 
Hardman S 
Hidden-mite  S 
Hidden-mite short S 
Hiddenite Delite T,S 
Hilliard Step S 
Lay Back Flakes T 
Leaky Roof TR 
Left Of Time S,TR 
Lightning Crack T 
Mandela S 
Mr. Aidman's Free S 
Old Man's Brow, The TR 
One Step TR 
Original Route TR 
Original Route Direct S 
Pork Chop TR 
Quarryisms S 
Quickdraw S 
Rainy Day Blues S 
Rebel Yell TR 
Safety Ledge S 
Short Stack TR 
Snake Charmer S 
Somebody open my Dew S 
Streaks , The S 
Sunny Day S 
Too Short S,TR 
Twins Left, The TR 
Twins Right, The S 
Where's The Flake TR 
Unsorted Routes:
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Rocky Face Recreational Area  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.96323, -81.1194 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,015
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ryan Beasley on Dec 28, 2013
Forecast:
This Afternoon

89° | 67°
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88° | 68°
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86° | 66°
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You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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Description 

This sunny rock face was operated as a quarry in the 1920s. In 2013 it opened as a recreational venue operated as a municipal park by Alexander County. Rebolting is ongoing to upgrade aged fixed anchors. THe rock quality is variable and the cliff sheds loose rock regularly. A helmet is advised for climbers and belayers. The park is located on Rocky Face Church Road just outside the town of Hiddenite.

History
Rocky Face is a man-made crag. A former quarry in the early to mid 1900ís. The earliest documentation of the quarry used for climbing or rappelling was in the 1970ís. The US Army Reservistís 3rd Brigrade, 518 Division out of Hickory used Rocky Face for rappelling training in 1975. Later, a few local climbers would discover the mountain. The ethics then, were strictly traditional, all but one bolt had been put in on lead. This bolt was placed by Ben Dunlap and Terry Wright in a rainstorm, with a hardware store bought drill and a homemade hammer. This was the second bolt they had ever placed. As of 1993, only one route saw the power drill, it was done from the ground up.

With permission from the first ascensionists (local climber, Steve Pope and others), many of the original routes have been retro-bolted for the enjoyment of generations of climbers. As an ongoing process, new routes for all levels of climbing ability are being established, creating even more energy around Rocky Face as a destination for sport and toprope climbing. The Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC), CCC representative and Rock Dimensions owner, Ryan Beasley; along with locals Johnny OíConnell and Travis Mabe have been important partners in helping to establish rock climbing as a major activity of the park.

To learn more about the Park and see a video from UNC TV NC Weekend.

video.unctv.org/video/23651437...

Getting There 

From Interstate 40 in Iredell County, travel US 64 West approximately 14 miles. Turn right at stoplight on Millersville Road. Travel one-half mile to stop sign on NC 90 and turn left. Travel one-half mile and turn right on White Plains Rd. Travel to stop sign and turn right on Rocky Springs Road. Travel 1.4 miles and turn left on Rocky Face Church Road. Park is 1.2 miles on right.

From Interstate 40 in Catawba County, travel NC 16 North toward Taylorsville and turn east onto US 64. Travel to stoplight at Millersville Road and turn left.Travel one-half mile to stop sign on NC 90 and turn left. Travel one-half mile and turn right on White Plains Rd. Travel to stop sign and turn right on Rocky Springs Road. Travel 1.4 miles and turn left on Rocky Face Church Road. Park is 1.2 miles on right.

From NC 16 North in Wilkes County, travel NC 16 South toward Taylorsville and turn east onto US 64. (Follow directions above from Millersville Road) From US 64/NC 90 in Caldwell County. Travel east onto US 64. (Follow directions above from Millersville Road)

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.1 miles from here

49 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',25],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',10],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',7],['5.10',10],['5.11',11],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rocky Face Recreational Area:
Too Short   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   
Flight Time   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport   
Sunny Day   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 50'   
Bob Right   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   
Lay Back Flakes   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Streaks    5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Blasted in Black   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Hidden-mite short   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Bullistics   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Crimps and Slopers   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Lightning Crack   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 25'   
Black Hole   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Hilliard Step   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Mr. Aidman's Free   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   
The General Lee   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Somebody open my Dew   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Hardman   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   
Quickdraw   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   
Hidden-mite    5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Double Roof Ballet   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Rocky Face Recreational Area

Featured Route For Rocky Face Recreational Area
Climber starting Lightning Crack.

Lightning Crack 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  NC : Rocky Face Recreational Are...
Short, strenuous hand crack to anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Rocky Face Recreational Area Slideshow Add Photo
White: Lightning Crack Green: Ain't this a Mess Re...
White: Lightning Crack Green: Ain't this a Mess Re...
Yellow: Flight Time Green: Mr. Aidman's Free Light...
BETA PHOTO: Yellow: Flight Time Green: Mr. Aidman's Free Light...
Park entrance.
Park entrance.
View of Top Rope Buttress in 2010.
View of Top Rope Buttress in 2010.
Looking at the Left Face prior to the large, loose...
Looking at the Left Face prior to the large, loose...
Rocky Face Park, (Jan 2014)
Rocky Face Park, (Jan 2014)
Heading around to the right side of the Main Wall ...
Heading around to the right side of the Main Wall ...
Another view of the Top Rope Buttress and the Uppe...
Another view of the Top Rope Buttress and the Uppe...
The Toprope Buttress in the 80's. Photo credit goe...
The Toprope Buttress in the 80's. Photo credit goe...
Right side of the Main Wall - 2013.
Right side of the Main Wall - 2013.
Looking at the Top Rope Buttress from below Gatewa...
Looking at the Top Rope Buttress from below Gatewa...
Sport Lead at Rocky Face
Sport Lead at Rocky Face

Comments on Rocky Face Recreational Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Jenkins
Jan 18, 2014
Second time there today , the park is very much like an outside gym, top rope and bolted lines even tie down bolts on large rocks on the ground if you bring a light weight belayer. Rounded out with a small pictured kiosk with lines listed and ratings at each area. Climbs actually start at 5.2 and go thru 5.12c so far. The county has hired developers so leave your drills at home all you bolting addicts. Great all day sun so its def a fall, winter, spring destination. There are restrooms , water fountain and covered picnic area , great for family style outings. My hat's tipped to Alexander County , hope all the state follows their example in maximizing all the assets at each individual location. Thanks too to John and Ryan for all their hard work , you guys are doing a great job for generations that you will never see!
By Mike Reardon
Jan 21, 2014
An additional thanks to Mike T and Ron F for getting the ball rolling on this area. Read below from the Access Fund website posted summer 2013.

Carolina Climbers Revive Climbing at Rocky Face

Central North Carolina has a newly opened climbing area, thanks to the work of Carolina Climber's Coalition (CCC) and Boone Climbers Coalition (BCC). "Rocky Face is an old quarry with routes that were developed in the 80s," says Mike Trew, CCC/BCC board member. Last year, Alexander County established the new Rocky Face Mountain Recreational Area, offering hiking, picnicking, and more. They sought out their in-state local climbing organizations for help to open and manage the area's climbing. CCC and BCC representatives jumped at the opportunity, and began an ongoing partnership with the county to promote and steward Rocky Face. Local climbers recently replaced many of the crag's aging fixed anchors, reviving more routes for climbers to enjoy. Rocky Face is about an hour north of Charlotte. A permit is required to climb
By Ryan Beasley
Feb 11, 2014
To learn more about Rocky Face Mountain Recreational Area visit the link below.
video.unctv.org/video/23651437...
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