This area has seen little development, and there is but one known established (bolted) route in the area (November of 2010). It is situated on State Park land, roughly a quarter mile inland from the Pacific Ocean. Rocky Creek is comprised of a small (15+ ft) boulder and a larger (30-80ft) cliff line on the opposite side of the gravel access road. The cliff is East facing, thus it is fairly well protected from the ocean air, wind, and the growth of moss. The rock itself is volcanic in origin, and seems to be comprised of a mixture of hard igneous chuncks, stuck into softer sedimentary rock. The tallest part of the main wall is riddled with huge huecos on vertical rock, which make for an exhilarating climbing experience.
Rocky Creek state Park is located on Highway 101 between Otter Rock and Depoe Bay. It is just on the North side of Cape Fowlweather. The access road to reach this climbing area, is located just off of Highway 101, .4 miles south of Rocky Creek State Park. Pull out on the left hand side of the road and park at gated road #2800. Don't park directly in front of the gate! Walk 10 minutes down the gravel road to the boulder, which is partially hidden by trees, on the right side of the road. Walk one minute further down the road, then turn back around to your left, to get a glimpse of the main wall through the trees. Follow unestablished rabbit trails trough the woods to reach the base of the cliff (approx 10-15 minutes).
There are a probably a couple 5.9+ cruxes, one about 10 feet up where the angle of the rock seems to steepen, and foot holds are thin. The other two cruxes require pulling out of the huge huecos back onto the vertical face, roughly one-third and two-thirds of the way up the route.The sedimentary/igneous rock mixture seems to hold together better than you might imagine, at least when its dry out. Every once in a small stone will pop off, so just make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet! The loc...[more]Browse More Classics in OR
Hey Bill, Thanks for the note! I am using Fixe stainless steel bolts with Hilti epoxy. This combo is a bit spendy, but I believe that the added life of these bolts will be well worth it! The rock is pretty good, and I've only had little nubbins blow out so far. The climbing is not relegated to Huecos, in fact only one face has huecos on it. There looks to be potential for several quality face climbs nearby that will be pure nubbins. Should be interesting to see how the area develops over time. If anyone out there is interested in helping out with this project, by all means let me know!