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Rockwork Orange 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 6,668
Submitted By: david baker on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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fresh citrus

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


This climb is the perfect dihedral running up the center of the rock. This climb is consistently tough with wide hands. The start is akward, keep your feet in the crack and jam away. The climb can be partially done as a lie back. However, stay in the crack for best results.


Use medium size cams. Gear anchor at top set back pretty far. Do not toprope without and extender rope. Climb takes good gear so lead it.

Photos of Rockwork Orange Slideshow Add Photo
you gotta sneak up that ramp, SON!
you gotta sneak up that ramp, SON!
Rockwork Orange
Rockwork Orange
great lead,  eats BD #2 and #3's
BETA PHOTO: great lead, eats BD #2 and #3's
Rockwork Orange
Rockwork Orange
Then you climb the crack, SON!
Then you climb the crack, SON!

Comments on Rockwork Orange Add Comment
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By aris garrison
Jan 29, 2007

This has perfect rock quality. It takes a #3 Camalot in the middle and #2s at the start and finish. The climb has about 25' of steep climbing.
By GregH
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 1, 2009

only stem at the very beginning, otherwise, stay in the crack
By G.McCay
From: Galloway, NJ
Feb 14, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I give it a 10b rating just because of the topout and it's overhanging, somewhat strenuous pull over the top lip (yes, I do topout on boulders).
By Andrew G
Apr 14, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

The 4th picture is probably the best in terms of showing the angle; the right wall is fairly overhung. I think the best word to describe this route would be burly. Lot of fun though and easy to set a top-rope on if you're not up for leading it.
By Ryan-G
From: San Diego
Feb 8, 2014

This things looks quite a bit different from the pics when you're actually at the base...and feels pretty burly when trying to exit at the top. Great climb.
By Rich Welker
From: Cardiff, Ca
Jun 16, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I used a BD #3 #4 and #2 at the top. Fun mantle!
By Adam Burch
Jan 5, 2015

I think burly 10a is fair for this one, to me - the topout is not the crux, it's just hanging in there while you place cams. It wants to spit you out the whole time. Big hands are definitely an advantage on this one, otherwise you're crying for ya mama.
By mike maniaci
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 25, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I first did this route in the mid-80's as the second, and just did it again as lead last year - 30 years later it seems more strenuous lol!-so I'll have to agree with burly now. The crux while leading seemed to me setting the next to last piece under the ledge that wants to keep whacking you in the head (can't see it in the pics). Yes a #2 camalot is perfect there - set it quickly and move on or you'll fatigue trying to keep your position.
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