This route is totally awesome in its difficulty. It is a stunning line, the most impressive on the whole east face of this rock. Start by bouldering up directly under the bolt, some long reaches required through the grainy rock here. After clipping the bolt, do a very tricky mantle (feels like V4) and then move left to sloping ledge. Once you get into the overhanging corner, place some gear and try stemming your way to the top. Mantling out is easy. The crux is starting the stemming, may be easier with tiny fingers, Mike said the grade was just an estimate, they really did not have a good idea of it. This climb is rarely done, and it is much harder than the grade would suggest. Easily toproped now from the bolt anchor.
One bolt (3/8" stainless), then small TCU's from #1 to #4, two bolt anchor (3/8" stainless) on top.
|Comments on Rockwork Orange
Mar 14, 2003
I've always been left with the impression that this route is fairly scary ( an "s" or whatever ). Have I been misinformed ( again )?
|By C Miller|
Mar 14, 2003
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
Great climb that features a bouldery move past the bolt (5.11) into a flared corner system (5.11 and funky) where I recall tenuous chimneying on the lip of the corner instead of stemming.