Rockwork Orange  5.11d

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Tony Yaniro, Mike Waugh & Nick Badyrka, January 1978 Submitted By:  Steve Juhasz on Jan 1, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: "Rockwork Orange" follows the obvious, overhanging...

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A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>> The far right side of this wall is closed due to the presence of Native American rock art. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment NEW RESTRICTIONS MORE INFO >>> www.nps.gov/jotr/parknews/dam_vandalism.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route is totally awesome in its difficulty. It is a stunning line, the most impressive on the whole east face of this rock. Start by bouldering up directly under the bolt, some long reaches required through the grainy rock here. After clipping the bolt, do a very tricky mantle (feels like V4) and then move left to sloping ledge. Once you get into the overhanging corner, place some gear and try stemming your way to the top. Mantling out is easy. The crux is starting the stemming, may be easier with tiny fingers, Mike said the grade was just an estimate, they really did not have a good idea of it. This climb is rarely done, and it is much harder than the grade would suggest. Easily toproped now from the bolt anchor.

Protection 

One bolt (3/8" stainless), then small TCU's from #1 to #4, two bolt anchor (3/8" stainless) on top.