Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Rocks State Park

Select Area...
Biceps Wall 
Breakaway Wall 
King and Queen Seat 
Pinnacle 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Woodstock 201
A hilly ride around the Patapsco-Woodstock area featuring cool sites and nice views of the river. Near Sykesville, MD
Patapsco Through Trail (white blaze)
From Daniels Dam out to McKeldin, with flowy singletrack and sweet river views along the way. Near Baltimore, MD
Pickall Trail
Savory technical nuggets Near Ellicott City, MD
David English
Best flow for fun/fast downhill by riding clockwise. Near Pike Creek, DE
Whitely Farms
Ridden mostly through open fields, Whitely Farms also features some fast descents. Near Pike Creek, DE
Downingtown, White Trail
A winding trail that takes you to Harmony Hill. Near Downingtown borough, PA
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Rocks State Park  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.6359, -76.4121 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 40,167
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brad.mering on Oct 22, 2007
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Vertical(5.6) at Rock State Park

Description 

Rocks State Park is about 40 minutes north of Baltimore, and has some of the best trad routes in Maryland. There are three main climbing areas. The main outcropping is called the King and Queen Seat, and hosts the majority of the routes. A small, 40ft pillar juts out from the end of the King and Queen Seat, to form the Strawberry Jam Pillar. Finally, off in the woods to the east is the Smoke and Ash Crag, hosting two short routes. Most of the worthwhile climbs are in the first two areas.

There are about 25 routes and a couple of variations. A couple of them are fairly high quality for the area, and two or three are exceptional by Maryland standards. The grades range from 5.4 to 5.12 and most of the routes can be toproped, either by slinging trees and blocks, or with a bit of gear.

The rock is fairly hard and eats up stopper placements. Cam placements can be a bit tricky due to the flaring rock. The main wall, with the highest concentration of high quality routes gets early sun.

There are few objective hazards in Rocks. There are copperhead snakes in the area, and occasionally popular climbs like Breakaway(5.9) and Vertical play host to wasp nests.

There is some old fixed gear, but all new fixed gear is banned, except by permission of the park ranger. The only access issue is that the park closes at sunset, and you will be fined if you are caught in the park after dark.

Getting There 

Drive north on I-95 to Route 24. Take 24 north about 10 miles. The road will go from a major highway to a small two lane country road. 24 becomes Rocks Rd. About a mile after you pass Cherry Hill Rd. You'll see a couple of parking lots on your left. If you hit a fork in the road with a bridge on the right (St. Clair's Bridge Rd.) you've gone to far. Park a the second lot and hike up the trail until you see the crag.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.5 miles from here

18 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rocks State Park:
Beginner Flake   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, TR, 50'   Biceps Wall
First Line   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Pinnacle
Vertical   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 70'   Breakaway Wall
Green Subtrafuge aka Centrifuge   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 85'   Breakaway Wall
Strawberry Jam   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Pinnacle
Breakaway left   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Breakaway Wall
Breakaway Right   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Breakaway Wall
Strawberry Jam Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Pinnacle
Piney   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   Breakaway Wall
Mike's Finger Buckets   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad   Breakaway Wall
Browse More Classics in Rocks State Park

Featured Route For Rocks State Park
Renee climbing Strawberry Jam in mid April.

Strawberry Jam 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  MD : Rocks State Park : Pinnacle
Follow the left leaning crack on the west side of the pillar....[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

Photos of Rocks State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Tanya climbs Vertical (5.6) at Breakaway Wall, Rocks State Park.
Tanya climbs Vertical (5.6) at Breakaway Wall, Roc...
Brakeaway Wall; the main wall at RSP. Routes vary from 5.6 (right/just out of photo) to 5.12 (center) to 5.9 (left)on this wall. Use a 60M rope when setting up on the upper belay ledge. A 3ed class exposed scramble to gain ledge. then an exposed 4 class scramble will get you up and down (not recommended); a repel down is easer and safer.
BETA PHOTO: Brakeaway Wall; the main wall at RSP. Ro...
At the lower part of breakaway.  nice corner features
BETA PHOTO: At the lower part of breakaway. nice corner featu...
My first lead on vertical
My first lead on vertical

Comments on Rocks State Park Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -