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Rocks State Park

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Biceps Wall 
Breakaway Wall 
King and Queen Seat 
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Rocks State Park  

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Location: 39.6359, -76.4121 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 45,406
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brad.mering on Oct 22, 2007
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Vertical(5.6) at Rock State Park


Rocks State Park is about 40 minutes north of Baltimore, and has some of the best trad routes in Maryland. There are three main climbing areas. The main outcropping is called the King and Queen Seat, and hosts the majority of the routes. A small, 40ft pillar juts out from the end of the King and Queen Seat, to form the Strawberry Jam Pillar. Finally, off in the woods to the east is the Smoke and Ash Crag, hosting two short routes. Most of the worthwhile climbs are in the first two areas.

There are about 25 routes and a couple of variations. A couple of them are fairly high quality for the area, and two or three are exceptional by Maryland standards. The grades range from 5.4 to 5.12 and most of the routes can be toproped, either by slinging trees and blocks, or with a bit of gear.

The rock is fairly hard and eats up stopper placements. Cam placements can be a bit tricky due to the flaring rock. The main wall, with the highest concentration of high quality routes gets early sun.

There are few objective hazards in Rocks. There are copperhead snakes in the area, and occasionally popular climbs like Breakaway(5.9) and Vertical play host to wasp nests.

There is some old fixed gear, but all new fixed gear is banned, except by permission of the park ranger. The only access issue is that the park closes at sunset, and you will be fined if you are caught in the park after dark.

Getting There 

Drive north on I-95 to Route 24. Take 24 north about 10 miles. The road will go from a major highway to a small two lane country road. 24 becomes Rocks Rd. About a mile after you pass Cherry Hill Rd. You'll see a couple of parking lots on your left. If you hit a fork in the road with a bridge on the right (St. Clair's Bridge Rd.) you've gone to far. Park a the second lot and hike up the trail until you see the crag.

Climbing Season

Weather station 9.5 miles from here

18 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rocks State Park:
Beginner Flake   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, TR, 50'   Biceps Wall
First Line   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Pinnacle
Vertical   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 70'   Breakaway Wall
Green Subtrafuge aka Centrifuge   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 85'   Breakaway Wall
Strawberry Jam   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Pinnacle
Breakaway left   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Breakaway Wall
Breakaway Right   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Breakaway Wall
Strawberry Jam Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Pinnacle
Mike's Finger Buckets   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad   Breakaway Wall
Piney   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   Breakaway Wall
Browse More Classics in Rocks State Park

Featured Route For Rocks State Park
Renee climbing Strawberry Jam in mid April.

Strawberry Jam 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  MD : Rocks State Park : Pinnacle
Follow the left leaning crack on the west side of the pillar....[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

Photos of Rocks State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Tanya climbs Vertical (5.6) at Breakaway Wall, Roc...
Tanya climbs Vertical (5.6) at Breakaway Wall, Roc...
Brakeaway Wall; the main wall at RSP. Routes vary ...
BETA PHOTO: Brakeaway Wall; the main wall at RSP. Routes vary ...
At the lower part of breakaway.  nice corner featu...
BETA PHOTO: At the lower part of breakaway. nice corner featu...
My first lead on vertical
My first lead on vertical

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